Day 112 - Pardoo Station

Stopped at the lookout for Kalamina Gorge on Sunday evening. Monday was begun with another dip, then down into Hancock Gorge for the morning. Had to either inch along rock ledges, or wade through chest high water. I chose the latter, arriving in Kermit's Pool. Every crevice was jammed with frogs! All hiding from the sun. Spend a while there, exiting by the same route that we took in, except this time one of my sandals disintegrated, and I ended up nearly dropping my backpack into the water, but spluttered my way to the shore. Nora's dry bags kept everything dry anyway.

Spectacular sunrise

At Kermit's Pool

Random mutterings

Out in the Pilbara, the vastness of Oz is laid bare by the flat scrubland, devoid of any human feature, bar the road splitting it in two. Termite mounds stand like sentries. It's surprisingly green, the spinifex adding splotches of colour to the red soil. There is little shade from the midday sun.

The oppressiveness of the heat is unlike anything I've experienced. It's hot from 7am. At 9am it is scorching. The heat sears my nostrils, like I'm breathing in a sauna. All we can do is hide in the gorges, sheltering in the shade like fugitives from the sun. The pools of water are our only relief.

The fact that Aborigines survived and thrived in this environment is astounding. Incredible skill and knowledge of the land must have been vital. Likewise the first pioneers must have been hardy men. They've left their stamp here, from Fortescue Falls to the more recent Tom Price - much of the landscape has been named after people. Determind spirits, hardy souls - their legacy might explain why physical perfection is so prized in modern Australia. Tanned, toned, surfers, swimmers - in Ireland we value wit and banter, the ability to have the craic. Polar opposites, complimenting each other? Or stereotypes, impressions after four weeks glimpsing the country? Ireland could certainly do with more focus on physical health. Although that might be a process already underway.

Day 111 - Karijini

After two nights in Exmouth, we headed into Karijini Nat. Park. Sat in the Pilbara among the Hammersley range of 'mountains', it is full of deep canyons cut into the rock by water flows over millions of years. At the moment it is dry season, so the water is very low, collecting only in a few pools, which are bliss to swim in.

On Sat we stopped into Hammersley Gorge. As we descend, the strata in the rock wall opposite us are fascinating, so clearly delineated. In some places the pressure has actually caused the layers to buckle. There is a basic rope swing, and we swim a little further up the gorge, but the waterfall has dried up. Back to camp for some stew, an amazing sunset, and a look into Joffre's gorge.

Friendly camp nightlife

Next morning I join Seán for a quick run and dip in Joffre's Gorge. A perfect start to the day. Down to Dale's gorge to see Fern Pool, sacred to the Aborigines. From there, a short walk downstream to Fortescue Falls, which trickles down a curved wall of extremely hot rocks, baked by the sun. I have to sprint down in my bare feet to escape the burning. A short while in the water (I'm still burnt from the previous day), and a snooze in the shade. Leave around midday, the sun at its hottest.

Fortescue Falls

Fern Pool

Jumping in at the base of Fortescue Falls

An hour or so in the visitor centre, learning about the stations (ranches) of cattle, and the Aboriginal workers. Then a long descent into Dale's Gorge again, this time to Circular Pool. This one is enclosed on three sides by towering red cliffs, with a white tree precariously perched on an overhang on one. We while away the hot afternoon hours there, and everyone is fairly bored by the end of it all. There's only so much swimming to be done. We head back to camp, and I loiter in the reception area with Angie and Charlie, check my mails. Enjoy a cold beer, then we have some delicious fish for dinner, with cous-cous.

Looking up from the Circular Pool

Day 110 - Karijini

Very hard to find time to write on this tour. When we're not actually doing an activity, we're on the bus, which is generally not smooth enough for writing. And during downtime, we all huddle in the sanctuaries of air-con, and so I am in constant company.

Day 107 - Exmouth

So dry, slightly burnt all over. Breakfast at 8, then out to Turquoise Bay for most of the day. First a walk along the Yardie Creek. Plenty of kangaroos, emus, a turtle, a wedge-tail eagle. Lots of wildlife, despite the barren appearance of the landscape. To the beach then, with a warning about slip tides. Nearly all went snorkelling. The Germans saw a shark, and Gregor saw a turtle. Saw a ray myself, and so many fish. The experience of "breathing" underwater, and seeing such a variety of wildlife is amazing.

Naval Communication Station Harold E. Holt

Wild emus

Wild kangaroo

Wildflower

Day 106 - Coral Bay

Run again this morning - bit lighter feeling than yesterday, but a little stiff. Came back trying to choose between tours - all day manta ray (and more) for $160, or snorkelling for $50. No scuba in Exmouth, so budget could cover $160, but there was a big crowd doing it, and it would take all day, with no chance for rest, so ended up going snorkelling. Got prescription snorkel too! Boarded the [glass-bottomed] boat right on the beach, and already there were quite a few fish underneath us - big snappers, little zebras. The glass was really clear, and magnified the view. The coral starts really close to the short - big cabbage coral, in beautiful rose-like swirls. Snorkelling was a pleasure, spotted a dark ray, and later a larger ray through the glass.

Day 105 - Monkey Mia

Haven't had a chance to write since starting the tour. Not a moment wasted! Fellow travellers are an Irish couple, a German couple, two English girls, a Swiss guy and a Dutch girl, all very friendly.

First stop is the site of the Pinnacles, a collection of stone pillars made of limestone, protruding from a floor of red desert. Not extremely remarkable, but when seen in large numbers, they create an alien landscape. After that we stop on the coast for some sandboarding and swimming. Got into Horrocks around 5pm, dinner on the barbecue of chicken, noodles and veg with creamy sauce.

Up at 5 the next morning to drive to Kalbarri, stopping at some sea cliffs (Pot Valley) along the way - everything is red! The park was a rocky area of scrub and bush. Nature's Window on a clifftop overlooking a loop in a river, a hole in a stack of rocks. Then a trail to the bottom of a gorge to indulge in some cheeky swimming among the rocks, then a burger for lunch. Long drive to Hamelin Pool, with me in the front.

Got a good chance to talk to our guide Seán. Father of two (18, 21), he's been a guide on and off for five years. Worked in water education before that, and studied nursing for three years recently, but found working as one was too stressful. He plays guitar.

Seán, king of the road

Shell beach for a quick swim in the warm and shallow water, then overnighting in Denham, a town with its own electricity supply (turbines) and water supply (bore). Steaks and sausages on the barbie again, and early to bed.

Stromatolites in Hamelin Pool

Shells on Shell Beach

Two lads standing in the distance, showing just how shallow the water was.

Went for a quick run this morning -legs were leaden and my body heavy. Walked part of it. Can feel a pot belly taking hold, have to fight it. Get fit before returning to Ireland.

This morning we headed to Monkey Mia. There they feed the dolphins every morning, but in a very controlled manner. Inge from our group was picked as a volunteer, and Angie in a later group. Got a boat then, headed out to sea, spotting dolphins as we went. They swam with the boat for a bit, and on the way back, leapt from the waves in our wake. Some dugongs and a turtle to be seen as well.

Inge feeding a dolphin

The lads hard at work on the catamaran

Dolphin swimming alongside

The tail of an elusive dugong

Everything is sandy at the moment, but I am salty.

***

Highlights of today: seeing so much wildlife, riding in the boom net of the Aristocat 2, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn, getting searched for drugs, and finally a bit of craic in the evening time!

Being searched for drugs

Colourful keys