Day 168 - Tongariro National Park

Abba blasting out of the PA system woke us from sleep at Maketu on the 12th. A cereal breakfast, a tidy up, then away to Rotorua. We had a couple of hours to kill there in the morning. Some went rafting, I went to find a local Irish pub to try watch the French match. A visit to the info centre, sent to a hotel, past a lot of closed bars - all with no luck. Then Laura text to say the match had been called off, presumably due to the cold (late confirmed - frozen pitch).

Bumped into Team Sweden, and headed to the lakefront with them, Philip and Franco. Franco is a gent from Israel, living in Thailand, maybe in his sixties. He left the bus in Taupo, having realised it was not for him. He expected a more comprehensive guided tour, with porters for his bahs. Nice chap though. Joined in briefly with a Zumba class, working up a sweat, and a bit of frisbee. Supermarket stop, then Subway for lunch, and back to meet the bus.

Drop off people at hostels - Crashley, Lauren and Nicole, and Chief Nate amongst them. On to Taupo, stopping for a photo op at a mud pool and a waterfall. We get an opportunity to head for the skydive early, so myself, Team Sweden, Christa, Sam and Lisette all pile into the back of a limo, and are taken to the airport.

Quick intro video, then I'm teamed up with Andrew for my tandem jump, who is a bit of a dour, no-nonsense individual. While others are laughing and chatting with their paired jumpers, Andrew is silent, guiding me away from the group photo for an individual shot. In the plane, I have to ask him to take a pic of me and Sofia. Two Germans jump out at 12,000ft. I'm surprisingly calm, watching the land get farther and farther away, then the clouds are moving away too.

The door opens again, and Team Sweden vanish out it, Sofia being the last before me. Andrew hoists me over to the precipice, I kneel, looking down at nothing but clouds. I'm not even nervous, just ready to embrace the experience. Andrew launches us out, and we swoop down toward cloud level. It doesn't quite feel like falling, perhaps because there's no immediate landmark to indicate speed. We hit 200km/hr apparently, but other than the wind bulging in my cheeks, I could be floating. We twirl around and around horizontally, spinning in the sky, making me dizzy.

The parachute deploys, and we both grasp the steering handles. I ask to see Lake Taupo, which is behind us, and Andy tells me to pull down sharply on the right handle. We lurch immediately to the right, heaving my stomach into my mouth. But the lake is spread out in front of me, shimmering blue, the biggest lake in NZ, the size of Singapore. Housing estates, roads, the airport - all laid out like a model town, or Google Earth. We touch down safely and easily, and everyone high-fives. Group photo before stripping the harness and jumpsuit.

What an amazing feeling! This might top swimming with the dolphins for #1 NZ activity, though it's a completely different experience. To tumble through the air, 4.6km above the planet - such freedom, such exhilaration  Pictures don't do it justice. Chat with our English driver on the way back to the hostel, she's been here about a month, done four jumps, but would do one every day if she could!

Check in at the hostel in Taupo, in a room with Sam and Lisette. Also a Canadian Monique, who is resting her lovely legs in bed after completing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing that day. There's a singer of sorts in the dining area, which is odd, but hostel is also the cheapest bar in town. He does as much heckling as singing, even though he's not a bad singer. Pop out to Pak 'n' Save to stock up for the next few days, and when I return to the hostel, Nate shows up! He's hitchhiked from Rotorua for one more good bye.

Sit and talk with him and the Italians for a bit, then outside with Jay and Linda, Sarah, Nate, Sam, Nora and her friend Julien, who we left in Hahei due to a full bus. Not a late night though - Tongariro is waiting, so we're all in bed at a sensible hour.

Haka

Kia mau
Ringa paakia
Waewae takahia
Ka mate, Ka mate
Ka ora, Ka ora
Ka mate, Ka mate
Ka ora, Ka ora
Tenei te tangatia
Puhuruhuru
Nana i tikimai
Whakawhiti te ra
A hupana, A hupana
A hupana, kaupane
Whiti te ra, hi
Homai te pukana

Kiwi:
Kia ora - welcome
Kampai - good

Swedish:
Hur mar du? - how are you?
Bra - good
Taak - thank you
Hej - hello
Haj - shark
Skoll - sláinte

The Stray Bus

Everyone on the bus for the haka and poi in Maketu (plus Miss P/Davina)

England:	Sam Joe Craig Keeley
France:	Dimitri
Canada:	Brian Christey Lauren Nate Jay Linda Heather Christa Alexia
Germany:	Irina Malias Svenia Joachim Nora Philip Lena Julie
Ireland:	Brian Louise Teresé
Italy:	Valeria Mariella Luca
Israel:	Franco
Netherlands:	Jimm Mickey Matthias Leoniek Marlou Ann Anita Lisette
Sweden:	Sofia Jen Nathalie Sara
Scotland:	Danny Nicky

Day 166 - Tongariro National Park

Later on the 11th, we pull into Uncle Boy's in Maketu. Uncle is a Maori man, perhaps in his sixties, heavyset, and with the look of a man who doesn't take any nonsense. He welcomes us with 'kia ora', and we yell back a well-rehearsed 'kia ora!'. He is suitably impressed. [Somewhere during this evening, I tried to remember everyone's name from the bus. I got about half maybe, and resolved to learn the rest by the end of the night.] Over a cup of tea, he explains in serious tones the intricacies of the evening to come. We elect Nate as our chief (O Canada!) and particular emphasis is put on his duties, and the protocol of the welcoming ceremony.

Uncle Boy

A Maori warrior would challenge him upon his arrival twirling his spear. He would then place a leaf upon the ground between him and the chief. Nate then could do a couple of things - walking away would be an insulting rejection, stepping forward over the leaf would be a sign of aggression, picking up the leaf while holding the warrior's gaze was the appropriate action if the chief wanted to accept the warrior's welcome. When the time came, the warrior was a fearsome 11 year old called Jayden, and Nate performed his part with noble grace.

Jayden challenges Nate

Then Uncle Boy welcomed him by touching hos nose and forehead to Nate's. Nate then proceeded to do the same with each Maori present, while we followed behind. When each person reached the end of the line, they would join it. The men/warriors were first, followed by the women. The end result was that each person greeted every other person, in a lovely and warm atmosphere.

We then sat while the Maori treated us to a short concert - four women in front, three guys behind, and one girl playing guitar. All ages represented. The singing was wonderful - calls and repeats, the women displaying their poi skills for a couple of melodies. After that, we were split into guys and girls, to learn the haka and the poi respectively. Uncle Boy was adamant that no girl could learn the haka, unless she did so topless. Which would give him a heart attack, so please don't do it!

Two teenagers taught us pronounciation and actions, all the while texting and joking. We stuttered through it at first, eventually finding a rhythm, and Nate learning his solo lines. 'Homai Tepukana' is his command for us to charge forward and pull our 'scary' face.

We perform for the girls once, then twice. They show us their poi skills, swaying their hips, and twirling the poi. A few stand in front with long poi - Irina, Jule, Ashley, Lauren and Lena. Irina is presented with a special gift by one of the Maori, an elderly woman with a sparkle of life and a twinkle in her eye.

Irina gets a special gift

We perform the haka once more, before wrapping up for the night. Lots of photos, then we set out our mattresses for sleeping. Some in a tent, others on the verandah, and most in the main hall. We play cards in the kitchen, and Philip plays guitar. A few beers, and I'm just about ready for bed, when the suggestions is made that we head to the beach. About ten of head down, passing night fishermen. Get a small fire going on the sand, but only stayed a while before heading back to sleep.

Danny, Valeria, Svenia, Lisette, Jule, Mariella, Philipp, Lauren, Dimitri (half-hidden), Leoniek, Joachim, Chief Nate, Brian, Me, Luca (behind), Jay (half-hidden), Matthias, Joe, Mickey, Craig, Jim, Franco;
Louise, Heather, Ashley, Nicky, Sofia, Marlou, Christie, Sara, Nathalie, Keeley, Alexia, Malias;
Ann, Nicole, Irina, Jen, Anita, Nora, Lena, Christa, Linda;
...I think one Irish girl is missing, Teresé.

Me, Chief Nate and Joachim

[Read Candian Linda's blog on this at http://downhomerdownunder.blogspot.ie/2012/02/stray-cat-shuffle-part-deux.html]

Day 165 - Taupo

Left Raglan after a quick shower, kinda negated by packing luggage on to the bus. It's been a full bus since Auckland, which means the compartment is jammed. If people don't make an effort to really stack the bags like a giant game of Tetris, bags have to go in the food locket, or on the bus. Of course, people aren't that bothered. But things get done quicker when you just help out, so I'm like a troll in the back hold.

Headed to Waitomo to do some caving. Lots of people just chilling, but others either tubing, or doing some more adventurous abseiling - like me! 'Haggas Honking Holes' is the name of the tour, and we're kitted out in wetsuits, jackets, white gumboots and helmets with a flashlight. Practise racking and unracking the ropes from our harnesses on a grassy slope, then descend to the cave entrance.

The first challenge is an abseil into a pitch black hole. Have to swing out into the dark and hang there before releasing the rack lock and dropping down. The two Kiwis (Richard and Katie) go first, disappearing over the edge. I'm next - can't see the bottom at all, even when suspended - the others' lights aren't even visible. I rappel quickly down, and discover at the bottom that the others have switched off the headlamps, to create an illusion of depth for those of us coming afterwards. After unclipping, I huddle in the corner and do likewise. The Canadians, Brian and Christie follow, and we move with Tony, along the underground stream. The next abseil is down a waterfall, and I go first. It's much shorter than the last one though, and I find myself almost horizontal in the pool of water at the bottom. I take some comfort in the fact that everyone else bar Katie makes the same mistake.

A few more waterfall abseils, some crawling through tiny ducts, and a blind descent - sliding down a tunnel, too narrow for abseiling. We spot a grey water spider, and Tony tells how it can run across the surface tension, and also hide underwater. He also gives us a lesson on glowworms - "cannibalistic maggots with shining shit". We climb our way out before we get too cold - quick shower, then dry in the sun. Excellent time!

Day 163 - Raglan

Still catching up! Spent all day of the 6th with Karyn. Met her at 11ish outside the YHA, and went down to a park by the waterfront to chill and play some frisbee. Spent a while looking for a place to have breakfast, managed to find a diner that did a decent feed - hash browns, bacon, mushrooms, sausages and scrambled egg. Bleeding delicious.

Into the national museum, Te Papa. Karyn was very excited about some lightweight rocks, but they were quite heavy. Another earthquake exhibition, this one with a simulator house. Probably should've spent longer there, but went to meet Karyn's sister Laura for a coffee. Also Irish Maggie and English Jay. Just chilled out again for a bit, ended up back at the same park playing frisbee again.

Scott and Ali dropped by again, took us for a wee drive - Shelly Beach I think, not far from the airport. Picked up their Swiss cousin from her flight, Sophie, then they dropped us back into town. Myself and Karyn finished the cider in the park, listening to the Black Keys and just shooting the breeze about music, friends, travel.

When it started to get colder and dark, we wandered down Cuba Street, bumping into Caoimhe and Gearóid on the way. End up in the Molly Malone (fantastic Guinness) talking about Ireland. G&C join us for one, but we are alone again by closing time. We wander down to waterfront, and sit and chat some more. The conversation is completely engrossing, she's great company. So much so that by the time we think to check our watches, it's nearly 4am. With the bus at 6.30am, there's not much point going to sleep. We pop back to the hostel for a cup of tea, then go in search of breakfast. McDonald's is the only place open that fills us. Walk her back to her hostel (like a gent), hugging goodbye around 5.45am.

That's 18 continuous hours together. Magnificent day!

Back to my hostel, grab my bag, and march back to the bus stop. There is Gea, Niyanta, Ger and Caoimhe, Louise, and Miss P driving again. I snatch 2hrs sleep on the bus, before we pull in at National Park (Tongariro) for lunch. Waiting there are Danielle, and Katie and Jule  We leave Louise there, and head for Rotorua.

***

Arrived in Rotorua late on the 7th, quickly checked in at the rather grim Base hostel, then got picked up for rafting. Five of us from the bus - Gea and Danielle, as well as Katie, and a German Jule. A Swiss guy, Emilie, joins us along the way. He's in the other boat though - we have an exclusively Stray raft. Into the water, and we're on to the rapids pretty quickly. Rangitata featured about 30mins of instruction before any action, but here it's pretty hands on. Gopher is our guide.

It's an exciting watercourse, but over far too quickly. Maybe eight rapids? One is 7m high - we're completely vertical, and plunge straight down into the pool at the bottom, water surging into the raft, drowning us. Katie is 'volunteered' to act as a figurehead while we surf a smaller rapid, and likewise suffers a deluge. But then it's done, and back to the hostel.

Shower, change, head down to the bar to grab a beer and avail of the free barbecue. Good eating. Chat to Niyanta for a while, but I can feel the tiredness creeping up on me, and I struggle to focus. Quit fighting it, and am out before the lights are off.

***

The 8th is an earlyish start. I sit next to Gea as we leave Danielle and Katie for Auckland. Pick up G&C - Miss P has trouble with Caoimhe's name, which is routine. Arrive in Auckland early afternoon, stay in Base, sharing a room with G&C. Head out to meet Gea, and we wander down to the water front. Nothing much to see, make a supermarket stop and head to the park. Picnic lunch, and then lots of frisbee. Random German dude joins in, Joachim, from near Frankfurt. He's travelling with his daughter. He only plays for ten minutes or so.

We chill out for a while longer, before splitting with plans to meet later. Shower and pack up in preparation for the morning, then head down to Globe bar. IDed, and convince the bouncer to take my Galwegian student card. We have a tonne of vouchers, me and Ger in rounds. Beer after beer, then necking a Bacardi Breezer. The guys play some pool, beating some regulars (and subsequently pissing them off by not going for a rematch). We arse about a bit, and then the bar host a wet tshirt competition. I'm not too bothered, but the entire bar, including the girls, gather to watch. I'm perched on the bar beside Gea, with a view over the crowds. All I can really see is one large girl more or less getting her tits out. It's not an attractive sight to me, but she walks away with the prize money.

The dancing starts then, and at some point Niyanta, Jule, and Swiss Sophie arrive. It's great fun, just bopping away, but as the night passes, everyone says goodbye one by one, until I dance alone for a cople of tunes, then head upstairs to bed.

***

Miss P had told me the bus was at 7am on the 9th, and I woke up fully at 7.15am! Ahhhh! Think I woke at 6am originally, but just took a leak and returned to bed. Rush downstairs in a panic, but find people still waiting. Bus is really at 7.40am. Change my tshirt in the street, and go back inside to brush my teeth.

Girl waiting is Dutch Ann, and German Jule comes down too. Also at the stop is Joachim and his daughter Svenia. I grab a window seat when Miss P pulls up, and Ann sits next to me. We talk off and on, but mostly I nap fitfully.

***

Random thoughts: two things that are almost sacrilegious to me - wearing earphones while hiking, and watching television when you could be interacting with real people. But on St John's Mount in Tekapo, there was only wind - no birdcalls. So Freeland Whales brought me to the summit. And now, others are dancing in the barn, but I am here half-watching Predators. But I need an off night occasionally, to be asocial.

***

Before reaching Hahei, we stop off at the famous hot water beach. For a couple of hours every low tide, a hot spring bubbles up under the beach. The custom is to dig a hole in the sand, and then relax in it, but when we arrive, the hot patch is crowded. Any holes we dig only reach cold water. Near the sea though, the spring is visible - bubbling water rising out of the sand, boiling and steaming, mixing with the tide.

Some of the guys try to step lightly in it, but it's scalding. Canadians - Nate and Kyle (Christa and Heather, Lauren), Swiss Michael jumps through as well. Started listing the bus there...
Ashley & Nicole from the US
English Craig, graffiti artist
Swedes: Sophia, Natalia, Sara; Jen
Jay & Linda from Canada
Irish Aoife
Italian Mariella

All of the above bar the Swedes come kayaking when we reach Hahei. Mark and Cam are our guides, two sound Kiwis. Everyone's confident, and we set a great pace. I'm paired up with Austrian Christophe, who is travelling solo in a camper-van. We poke into a few bays, and squeeze between rocks. The sea is perfect - challenging, a little choppy and rough, but not a frustrating struggle, nor too scary. We stop at Cathedral Cove, where I go in for a swim, clearing away any lingering hangover. The two lads prepare an amazing array of coffees, teas, hot chocolates, cappuccinos, and set them out on a picnic blanket. Really superb. After that, we kayak around some rocky islands, through a wee cave, and then let the wind push us home, even sighting a penguin along the way. Yay!

Back at the dorms, the barbecue is almost ready. I meet the Swedes then, who are travelling together, from Gothenburg. Beers and barbecue - hard to beat. Some smashing potato salad too. Accidentally ask Ann her name again, despite sitting beside her on the bus all day. She's one more blonde next to all the blonde Swedes, and I haven't got my glasses on, whoops!

After the barbecue finishes (shamefully, in a rare move, I didn't help at all), we move to the beach. Some skinny dipping ensues, Nate leading the charge. Go back to change/dry, and I get the feeling the party is dying when I return to the beach. Chat to Svenia for a bit, but Nate muscles in, marking his territory. I hang about a while longer, mostly mute, then make an Irish Exit.

***

This morning then, up for breakfast, discover I left my oats in Rotorua. Dammit. Breakfast on two oranges instead. Bus is full again, so help pack the luggage compartment. Back on the bus, discover my bad's been moved from my seat by the Canadian couple. irritating, but not the end of the world. Jay is apologetic, but I'm happy sitting next to Swedish Jen. Long drive to Raglan - coast to coast - but we don't talk much. I read Chuck Palahniuk's Rant. We make a stop in Paeroa, home of L&P. Break out the frisbee, use a musical toilet. Miss P gets a thorough checkover by a cop - not sure if anything was wrong in the end.

Reach Raglan shortly after lunchtime. Hostel is a set of huts set deep in a forested area, very lush and green. There's a few of us doing a surf lesson - Aoife, Michael and Swiss Aron, Dutch Ann, German Jule, Canadian Christa, and two newly-arrived Slovenians - Kaja and Lucija.

We get some tips in the barn from Lucy (English with an Irish boyfriend) and Kiwi Kemmy. How to stand up and how to stay standing. Then it's down to the beach to see how we got on for real. Lucy gives Kaja a push first, and she's standing up all the way in, like a natural.

We all start trying it, and it's a lot easier than I remember, though I still flip a few times, the nose of my board dipping and dragging me under. But after about 30mins or so, I'm starting to get the hang of it. Lucy gives me a tip or two, and then I start to get the position and timing right. By the end I'm catching waves when I want, and riding them nearly all the way in.

Return the boards to Sally (Cork!), and back to hostel. Cup of tea, biscuits, book. Chat to a few people as they stop by my table, though I'd rather like to finish my book. Oh well, life is hard!

Raveoli dinner, then wander up to Inspiration Point to catch the last colours of the sunset. Sit there a while, chatting. Return for cards and pool, teaming up with Christa against Michael and Dutche Leonie. Then, eventually, my journal is brought up to date, with Forrest Gump, Predators and RED in the background. Sleep time now.

[Read Canadian Linda's blog on this at http://downhomerdownunder.blogspot.ie/2012/02/stray-cat-shuffle-part-one.html]