Monday 13 February 2012

Day 166 - Tongariro National Park

Later on the 11th, we pull into Uncle Boy's in Maketu. Uncle is a Maori man, perhaps in his sixties, heavyset, and with the look of a man who doesn't take any nonsense. He welcomes us with 'kia ora', and we yell back a well-rehearsed 'kia ora!'. He is suitably impressed. [Somewhere during this evening, I tried to remember everyone's name from the bus. I got about half maybe, and resolved to learn the rest by the end of the night.] Over a cup of tea, he explains in serious tones the intricacies of the evening to come. We elect Nate as our chief (O Canada!) and particular emphasis is put on his duties, and the protocol of the welcoming ceremony.

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Uncle Boy

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A Maori warrior would challenge him upon his arrival twirling his spear. He would then place a leaf upon the ground between him and the chief. Nate then could do a couple of things - walking away would be an insulting rejection, stepping forward over the leaf would be a sign of aggression, picking up the leaf while holding the warrior's gaze was the appropriate action if the chief wanted to accept the warrior's welcome. When the time came, the warrior was a fearsome 11 year old called Jayden, and Nate performed his part with noble grace.

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Jayden challenges Nate

Then Uncle Boy welcomed him by touching hos nose and forehead to Nate's. Nate then proceeded to do the same with each Maori present, while we followed behind. When each person reached the end of the line, they would join it. The men/warriors were first, followed by the women. The end result was that each person greeted every other person, in a lovely and warm atmosphere.

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We then sat while the Maori treated us to a short concert - four women in front, three guys behind, and one girl playing guitar. All ages represented. The singing was wonderful - calls and repeats, the women displaying their poi skills for a couple of melodies. After that, we were split into guys and girls, to learn the haka and the poi respectively. Uncle Boy was adamant that no girl could learn the haka, unless she did so topless. Which would give him a heart attack, so please don't do it!

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Two teenagers taught us pronounciation and actions, all the while texting and joking. We stuttered through it at first, eventually finding a rhythm, and Nate learning his solo lines. 'Homai Tepukana' is his command for us to charge forward and pull our 'scary' face.

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We perform for the girls once, then twice. They show us their poi skills, swaying their hips, and twirling the poi. A few stand in front with long poi - Irina, Jule, Ashley, Lauren and Lena. Irina is presented with a special gift by one of the Maori, an elderly woman with a sparkle of life and a twinkle in her eye.

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Irina gets a special gift

We perform the haka once more, before wrapping up for the night. Lots of photos, then we set out our mattresses for sleeping. Some in a tent, others on the verandah, and most in the main hall. We play cards in the kitchen, and Philip plays guitar. A few beers, and I'm just about ready for bed, when the suggestions is made that we head to the beach. About ten of head down, passing night fishermen. Get a small fire going on the sand, but only stayed a while before heading back to sleep.

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Danny, Valeria, Svenia, Lisette, Jule, Mariella, Philipp, Lauren, Dimitri (half-hidden), Leoniek, Joachim, Chief Nate, Brian, Me, Luca (behind), Jay (half-hidden), Matthias, Joe, Mickey, Craig, Jim, Franco;
Louise, Heather, Ashley, Nicky, Sofia, Marlou, Christie, Sara, Nathalie, Keeley, Alexia, Malias;
Ann, Nicole, Irina, Jen, Anita, Nora, Lena, Christa, Linda;
...I think one Irish girl is missing, Teresé.

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Me, Chief Nate and Joachim
[Read Candian Linda's blog on this at http://downhomerdownunder.blogspot.ie/2012/02/stray-cat-shuffle-part-deux.html]

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