Got a few hours sleep when we arrived at the hostel yesterday morning - free pickup from the train station too. We were completely zonked out before the nap - Dom couldn't even choose something for breakfast. I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow, despite the pneumatic drill outside. Dom described me as "sleeping peacefully, but snoring violently".
Went for a wander around Xi'an then, seeing the Bell and Drum Towers. Despite the sleep, we were all still a bit off, and the restorative powers of Chinese food proved their worth! Chicken, beef, prawns, some nice rice - we got the portions just right. The waitresses in the restaurant welcomed every patron in unison - "Nin hao, huanying guanglin" (ish), very pleasing to the ears.
Tried to see the Wild Goose Pagodas then, but they were closed. Back to the hostel bar for some beer, and Dom explained table tennis to us - the women's and men's Asian singles finals were on the television. A bit of bonding conversation, then back to bed for some still much-needed sleep.
Just realised I've omitted out last night in Beijing. The four of us - Dom, Kelly, Brigitte and mysld - met at 7 at the hostel. Scott and Ali were heading to the bar district with their new group, which promised to be a lot of fun, or the two German girls from the Irkutsk-UB train wanted a quiet drink before their early flight. Lots of potential for fun!
But we were all a bit drained. Four weeks of constant activity had left us a little burnt out. We opted to eat next door to the hostel (a massive amount of food, including not pleasant intestine - felt like such a glutton), and then grab some cheap (warm) beers from the supermarket and watch a DVD. We kicked some Chinese kids off the Playstation, and put on the utterly atrocious 'Unstoppable'. A rather mundane night, but precisely what we needed.
I know I started the day on a bit of a downer with the two girls leaving, but had perked up once I'd gotten out into Beijing. Similarly our last day in Beijing, Brigitte left us heading to Shanghai, but seeing my first blue sky in Beijing made me a little more optimistic.
Even now, travelling with Kelly and Dom, and after so many friendly people on the train, the message is driven home that it's not about the places you visit, it's the people you meet along the way. Clichéd, but I'm discovering the true meaning of it.
A not on travelling in China - the 1st-7th October is a week of celebration for the National Day. A lot of companies and government offices give the week off, so many people travel home to spend time with family. It's essentially the Chinese equivalent of Christmas and New Year's. Trying to get a train ticket at short notice during this time is nigh on impossible (and why we had to get standing tickets). A similar week exists for the Spring festival.
Also, counter 16 in stations is the English speaking one. Why Chinese people queue for this desk, despite how slowly it moves, is beyond me.
Random memory from Beijing - seeing dorm beds in a room in a pedestrian underpass. Homeless shelter? Some where for street cleaners to clock off?
Off to see the Terracotta Warriors today, huzzah! Claire recommended going through backwards, will have to persuade the others of the merits of this.
Random note - Xi'an has at least two Starbucks.
After a prolonged morning, we set out to get to the Terracotta Warriors. Rather than take the organised hosted tour (220RMB), we opted to take the public bus (7RMB each way), braving a *massive* crush of people outside the bus station. It was so crowded even some of the Chinese were taking photos. Arriving at our destination, a strange man plucked us out of the queue to tell us we could get student tickets, at helf-price (55RMB, for a total of 69RMB). He then wanted us to buy something in his shop, but he had no guide books, so we had to be rather mean and refuse.
Spoke to some random Chinese student while walking to the pits, he wanted to practice his English I think. Followed Claire's advice, starting with pit 3, a small collection of horses and soldiers. Pit 2 was a vast expanse of unexcavated earth. Pit 1 was the real deal - the terracotta warriors, rows and rows of them! TERRACOTTA WARRIORS!! I still remember reading about them in Mammy's National Geographic, must be 12 or 15 years ago now. Definitely my #1 reason for visiting China. Even got a picture with them. Splashed out, my pasty shins immortalised next to Qin's army.
So pleased on the bus home to be in China, even the guy spitting out the window couldn't dampen my spirits.
They were to be tested this evening though, as we moved hostels. Got a crowded bus to the new street, but couldn't find a trace of the new place. I had made the booking, so I felt responsible for the muck-up, and let the other two sit while I wandered up and down the street. I asked in various shops, but got conflicting directions. Eventually I rejoined the others in failure, where they had been getting worried about me. The three of us returned to what I thought had been the friendliest shopkeeper. There, bags on back, I mimed asking the shopkeeper to please show us the hostel. He obliged (what a gent!) and led us into what appeared to be the courtyard of an apartment block. Nestling in the corner was what appeared to be a nice hotel, but had labelled itself a 'youth hostel'.
Once we figured out we were definitely in the right place, the bad news was that they had no trace of our booking. Bloody hostelbookers! Using a laptop to translate, Dom cleverly used the pity vote to negotiate a better room rate. Our booking was for 210RMB, standard rate was 350RMB, but we haggled to 300.
So now we have three single beds, in relative comfort. The area is very Chinese, no English menus. After all the hassle though, the only place left open was a fast food join - Dico's.
Accommodation front is more upbeat now. Emerald from the train has found us a spare room in Chengdu, and Helen has a piece of floor for me in Sydney. My iPod has died however, so music is limited.
http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-121-xian.html
Went for a wander around Xi'an then, seeing the Bell and Drum Towers. Despite the sleep, we were all still a bit off, and the restorative powers of Chinese food proved their worth! Chicken, beef, prawns, some nice rice - we got the portions just right. The waitresses in the restaurant welcomed every patron in unison - "Nin hao, huanying guanglin" (ish), very pleasing to the ears.
Inside the Bell Tower |
Dom and Kelly at the Drum Tower |
Best meal ever! |
Tried to see the Wild Goose Pagodas then, but they were closed. Back to the hostel bar for some beer, and Dom explained table tennis to us - the women's and men's Asian singles finals were on the television. A bit of bonding conversation, then back to bed for some still much-needed sleep.
***
Just realised I've omitted out last night in Beijing. The four of us - Dom, Kelly, Brigitte and mysld - met at 7 at the hostel. Scott and Ali were heading to the bar district with their new group, which promised to be a lot of fun, or the two German girls from the Irkutsk-UB train wanted a quiet drink before their early flight. Lots of potential for fun!
But we were all a bit drained. Four weeks of constant activity had left us a little burnt out. We opted to eat next door to the hostel (a massive amount of food, including not pleasant intestine - felt like such a glutton), and then grab some cheap (warm) beers from the supermarket and watch a DVD. We kicked some Chinese kids off the Playstation, and put on the utterly atrocious 'Unstoppable'. A rather mundane night, but precisely what we needed.
I know I started the day on a bit of a downer with the two girls leaving, but had perked up once I'd gotten out into Beijing. Similarly our last day in Beijing, Brigitte left us heading to Shanghai, but seeing my first blue sky in Beijing made me a little more optimistic.
Even now, travelling with Kelly and Dom, and after so many friendly people on the train, the message is driven home that it's not about the places you visit, it's the people you meet along the way. Clichéd, but I'm discovering the true meaning of it.
***
A not on travelling in China - the 1st-7th October is a week of celebration for the National Day. A lot of companies and government offices give the week off, so many people travel home to spend time with family. It's essentially the Chinese equivalent of Christmas and New Year's. Trying to get a train ticket at short notice during this time is nigh on impossible (and why we had to get standing tickets). A similar week exists for the Spring festival.
Also, counter 16 in stations is the English speaking one. Why Chinese people queue for this desk, despite how slowly it moves, is beyond me.
***
Random memory from Beijing - seeing dorm beds in a room in a pedestrian underpass. Homeless shelter? Some where for street cleaners to clock off?
***
Off to see the Terracotta Warriors today, huzzah! Claire recommended going through backwards, will have to persuade the others of the merits of this.
***
Random note - Xi'an has at least two Starbucks.
***
After a prolonged morning, we set out to get to the Terracotta Warriors. Rather than take the organised hosted tour (220RMB), we opted to take the public bus (7RMB each way), braving a *massive* crush of people outside the bus station. It was so crowded even some of the Chinese were taking photos. Arriving at our destination, a strange man plucked us out of the queue to tell us we could get student tickets, at helf-price (55RMB, for a total of 69RMB). He then wanted us to buy something in his shop, but he had no guide books, so we had to be rather mean and refuse.
Spoke to some random Chinese student while walking to the pits, he wanted to practice his English I think. Followed Claire's advice, starting with pit 3, a small collection of horses and soldiers. Pit 2 was a vast expanse of unexcavated earth. Pit 1 was the real deal - the terracotta warriors, rows and rows of them! TERRACOTTA WARRIORS!! I still remember reading about them in Mammy's National Geographic, must be 12 or 15 years ago now. Definitely my #1 reason for visiting China. Even got a picture with them. Splashed out, my pasty shins immortalised next to Qin's army.
Pit 1 - so, so many warriors |
Live archaeology! |
So pleased on the bus home to be in China, even the guy spitting out the window couldn't dampen my spirits.
***
They were to be tested this evening though, as we moved hostels. Got a crowded bus to the new street, but couldn't find a trace of the new place. I had made the booking, so I felt responsible for the muck-up, and let the other two sit while I wandered up and down the street. I asked in various shops, but got conflicting directions. Eventually I rejoined the others in failure, where they had been getting worried about me. The three of us returned to what I thought had been the friendliest shopkeeper. There, bags on back, I mimed asking the shopkeeper to please show us the hostel. He obliged (what a gent!) and led us into what appeared to be the courtyard of an apartment block. Nestling in the corner was what appeared to be a nice hotel, but had labelled itself a 'youth hostel'.
Once we figured out we were definitely in the right place, the bad news was that they had no trace of our booking. Bloody hostelbookers! Using a laptop to translate, Dom cleverly used the pity vote to negotiate a better room rate. Our booking was for 210RMB, standard rate was 350RMB, but we haggled to 300.
So now we have three single beds, in relative comfort. The area is very Chinese, no English menus. After all the hassle though, the only place left open was a fast food join - Dico's.
***
Accommodation front is more upbeat now. Emerald from the train has found us a spare room in Chengdu, and Helen has a piece of floor for me in Sydney. My iPod has died however, so music is limited.
***
http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-121-xian.html
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