Wednesday 5 October 2011

Day 35 - Chengdu-Kunming train

Took two immodium last night before sleeping, terrified the hotpot would hit me at a bad time. Say goodbye to the others, taxi to the train. Carriage seems quiet. Had a clear out as soon as the train started moving. Incredibly cathartic. Now to Kunming!

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Cǎo ní mǎ [Tsao nee maah] - Chinese for "fuck your mother"

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"Yoghurt explosion" and "bed pollution" will forever make me giggle.

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Have noticed the lack of graveyards in China and Mongolia, also Russia. Saw a few small plots of steles (maybe 15m2) from the train window. Are Buddhists cremated?

Makes me think that the acres of graves at home are wasteful. Monuments to those that are gone, a sign of love and respect. In the Mongolian ger tents, they have a shrine to dead relatives, for private reverence. Perhaps this is better? But then we would be missing O'Connell's tower, Parnell's rock, Grandaddy's grave - nice for a visit and a prayer, so maybe one wouldn't want a constant reminder of the loss in the home. Or is it a constant reminder of the memory? The life.

Poor L. Hope her dad will be okay.

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As I've come further east on my journey, one of the things that's noticeably worsened has been the traffic and ability of drivers. In SPB and Moscow, drivers often sped down the main drags. In Irkutsk, Sergei would protect us while we crossed the road. By UB, traffic lights had become only a guide line. The group was often split when some didn't make it across the road. In Beijing, the bicycles were everywhere, haphazardly using road, cycle lane and path, rarely with lights. In Xi'an, zebra crossings were negotiated one lane at a time.

One thing has been consistent: the taxi drivers are all lunatics. In UB and Chengdu we witnessed it from the passenger seat. But it must be a universal truth.

I've been warned that Vietnam will be even worse.

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Chinese countryside rolling  by again. Small homesteads, allotments, corn. First solo leg of my journey, Chengdu to Kunming. I'd be more prepared for it tomorrow, but it has been foisted on me today. First pang of loneliness while shopping for one yesterday. Might try Skype home once I'm in Kunming hostel. Will take a day or two to recuperate, do laundry, get my visa for Vietnam, send a few emails and hopefully back things up online. Then on to Lao Cai and Sapa as quickly as possible.

Travelling alone is odd after a month of company. There's nobody to share experiences with. Is there a point to solitary joy? Yes, but I wonder how long I can be asocial for. Half the point of this journal is to share my experiences with others and future me.

Shower goodbyes to Dom and Kelly this morning. Almost perfunctory, formal. A hug and a handshake, "enjoy your travels", and then gone. What else is there to do, to say? Is it ever really goodbye when there's email, Facebook?

Missed Andy and Jake. Group goodbye for Seb & Nicci, Ali & Scott on a train. Only half of Team Swiss. Motleys in the morning, Brigitte at 5am.

No. Goodbyes of these magnitudes are never easy. Keep it short and sincere.

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Paddy fields! First sighting of the trip! Makes a change from corn. Lots of vegetables too - green and lush looking. Simple life out here no doubt. Everything is relatively cheap compared to home, but I wonder what the standard of life is like for the natives. So far I've spent most of my time in cities, where everyone has the trappings of wealth, like mobile phones. Only in UB was poverty really thrust in our faces - neglected children roaming the streets.

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The Chinese drive like Dubliners cycle.

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Gambai - Chinese toast, means 'empty glass'
Ne hau peow liang - you are very pretty

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