It's 12.30, and Andy is snoring. Quite tired from the day, and the adjustment from Moscow time, but can't quite get past the snoring.
We had one giant game of arsehole last night as part of our last nigh ton the train, and Brigitte had a couple of shots of vodka, including one rather large self-administered one, to kick off her 21st birthday.
Woke at 07.30 for a 09.45 departure from the train. At that point it had become home, despite its flaws of toilets that are locked 90% of the time, a diet of instant food, and Russians taking photos of us, and then telling us to be quiet. One also developed quite a thing for Jake, going so far as to photograph him from the train while he was on the platform, without him knowing - or least that was the intention.
Our guide was waiting on the platform at Irkutsk (I'm on the Risk board!) - Sergei, a long-haired native, who took us to Listvyanka on a small bus. First order of the day was 'breakfast', at 13.00 local time - an omelette we'll be paying 250r for the pleasure of. Further discussions with the warden revealed that laundry was 250r per person, not per load, and the wi-fi is 50r each. Despite the connection being the worst we've encountered so far.
We took a walk along the shores of the lake in biting cold. The local sights were a collection of vintage cars and crazy scrap metal sculptures, and the orthodox church, accurately described by Lonely Planet as "pretty but unremarkable".
Then at 6pm we had the banya. I'd been looking forward to this since watching it on 'The Long Way Round'. This particular one was attached to the hostel, so rather private. We split into two groups, with me in the second group with the three couples. We sat and drank tea, before taking our turn in the sauna. Once at hot, a second time at hotter, and a third time being thrashed with birch branches.
Ultimately it was a little disappointing for me. By the time my turn came around, Sergei has exerted himself a little too much, and probably spent too long in the steam room and the extreme heat. Scott gave me a quick strong thrashing, which was rather pleasant, but I think the absurdity of the whole situation overpowered it. Hearing phrases like "Change the position", and "turn around so I can make on your face" reduced us all to fits of laughter.
For supper, we had some nice fresh salad, and a chicken, veg and rice mains. Vodkatrain (or more likely, Sergei) very kindly bought two cakes to help celebrate Brigitte's birthday. We stuck up some balloons, and had a toast. I'm not sure i f I made a mistake in over-organising things, or (what I'd like to think) everyone was tired from the time adjustment. Everyone was a bit quiet, and most were headed to bed by 22.30. Myself, Dom and Kim took a walk along the lakeshore again, but there was nothing much to see. Too overcast for stars.
Still the 15th, now the afternoon. Went for a Siberian swim this morning in Lake Baikal. Jake, Seb, Dom, Lucas, Brigitte and Sergei took a dip as well, while Hollie, Kim and Regine operated the cameras. Average temp. for this time of year is 3-4 degrees, but I don't think it was that cold. It was like soup! Managed a quick breast stroke and a nice front crawl, as suggested the previous night. Recovered swiftly afterwards (definitely quicker than a Forty Foot dip) and back for breakfast.
A 20r bus trip and a short steep hike brought us to a viewpoint with a fantastic view over the lake. Today is much clearer than yesterday, and the snow-topped mountains looked magnificent on the far shore.
Surreal moment to remember #1: giving cash and all our passports to a man we'd met only five minutes earlier.
#2: drinking tea with Seb and Lucas in the banya, wearing silly hats and talking about Alice in Wonderland and the fourth dimension.
Just received a text from Mairead to say "Anna or boy Anna is on the way". Amazing news! Delighted, and looking forward to seeing her even more now.
http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/09/day-104-still-on-bloody-train.html
http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/09/day-105-listvyanka.html
***
We had one giant game of arsehole last night as part of our last nigh ton the train, and Brigitte had a couple of shots of vodka, including one rather large self-administered one, to kick off her 21st birthday.
Woke at 07.30 for a 09.45 departure from the train. At that point it had become home, despite its flaws of toilets that are locked 90% of the time, a diet of instant food, and Russians taking photos of us, and then telling us to be quiet. One also developed quite a thing for Jake, going so far as to photograph him from the train while he was on the platform, without him knowing - or least that was the intention.
Our guide was waiting on the platform at Irkutsk (I'm on the Risk board!) - Sergei, a long-haired native, who took us to Listvyanka on a small bus. First order of the day was 'breakfast', at 13.00 local time - an omelette we'll be paying 250r for the pleasure of. Further discussions with the warden revealed that laundry was 250r per person, not per load, and the wi-fi is 50r each. Despite the connection being the worst we've encountered so far.
We took a walk along the shores of the lake in biting cold. The local sights were a collection of vintage cars and crazy scrap metal sculptures, and the orthodox church, accurately described by Lonely Planet as "pretty but unremarkable".
 |
| I'm on the Risk board! |
 |
| Nicci and friend |
 |
| First snow of the season |
Then at 6pm we had the banya. I'd been looking forward to this since watching it on 'The Long Way Round'. This particular one was attached to the hostel, so rather private. We split into two groups, with me in the second group with the three couples. We sat and drank tea, before taking our turn in the sauna. Once at hot, a second time at hotter, and a third time being thrashed with birch branches.
Ultimately it was a little disappointing for me. By the time my turn came around, Sergei has exerted himself a little too much, and probably spent too long in the steam room and the extreme heat. Scott gave me a quick strong thrashing, which was rather pleasant, but I think the absurdity of the whole situation overpowered it. Hearing phrases like "Change the position", and "turn around so I can make on your face" reduced us all to fits of laughter.
***
For supper, we had some nice fresh salad, and a chicken, veg and rice mains. Vodkatrain (or more likely, Sergei) very kindly bought two cakes to help celebrate Brigitte's birthday. We stuck up some balloons, and had a toast. I'm not sure i f I made a mistake in over-organising things, or (what I'd like to think) everyone was tired from the time adjustment. Everyone was a bit quiet, and most were headed to bed by 22.30. Myself, Dom and Kim took a walk along the lakeshore again, but there was nothing much to see. Too overcast for stars.
 |
| Sergei and Brigitte |
 |
| Andy, Scott, Ali and Jake - Andy showing his balloon skills |
***
Still the 15th, now the afternoon. Went for a Siberian swim this morning in Lake Baikal. Jake, Seb, Dom, Lucas, Brigitte and Sergei took a dip as well, while Hollie, Kim and Regine operated the cameras. Average temp. for this time of year is 3-4 degrees, but I don't think it was that cold. It was like soup! Managed a quick breast stroke and a nice front crawl, as suggested the previous night. Recovered swiftly afterwards (definitely quicker than a Forty Foot dip) and back for breakfast.
 |
| Seb, Brigitte and me |
A 20r bus trip and a short steep hike brought us to a viewpoint with a fantastic view over the lake. Today is much clearer than yesterday, and the snow-topped mountains looked magnificent on the far shore.
***
Surreal moment to remember #1: giving cash and all our passports to a man we'd met only five minutes earlier.
#2: drinking tea with Seb and Lucas in the banya, wearing silly hats and talking about Alice in Wonderland and the fourth dimension.
***
Just received a text from Mairead to say "Anna or boy Anna is on the way". Amazing news! Delighted, and looking forward to seeing her even more now.
***
http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/09/day-104-still-on-bloody-train.html
http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/09/day-105-listvyanka.html
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