One week in Ireland - The Burren

1 day. Ideal to pass through over an extended afternoon, from Kerry to Galway perhaps.

The Burren is one of Ireland's more unique spots. A limestone landscape, it's still home to a wide range of wildlife. It also contains Poulnabrone dolmen, the Ailwee Caves and the spectacular Cliffs of Moher. If you're in Ireland in September, the village of Lisdoonvarna is host to the Matchmakers Festival. Nearby Kilfenora has a fine collection of high crosses.



For any Father Ted fans, there's plenty to see and do. Many of the series' outdoor filming took place in and around the village Kilfenora, and Father Ted's house isn't too far off either. Fanore (Fán Óir) is where the caravan park from 'Hell' is located. The river beside the Falls hotel in Ennistymon is the setting for the video to 'My Lovely Horse'. In Kilfenora itself is Vaughan's pub ('Are you right there, Father Ted?'), the row of houses from which Pat Mustard emerges without his trousers, and where Dougal delivers milk to women in the nip. The roundabout from the same episode is a prop, but was located outside Linnane's pub (which does the best Guinness in all Ireland!).



If you're leaving the Burren to head to Galway, make sure to stop at Dunguaire castle just after Kinvara.

One week in Ireland - Kerry

Kerry is possibly my favourite place in the country. My grandfather on my mother's side is from Kerry, so I might be biased, and nearly every time I go, it rains. Ferociously. But even when it rains, Kerry's still beautiful. It's got it all - mountains, lakes, beautiful beaches, lots of great towns, history, pubs, craic. It's probably why I end up heading there once or twice a year.

It's easily reachable from Cork, less than ninety minutes drive to Killarney. Kerry is split into two peninsulas - Dingle (Daingean in Irish) and Iveragh. The Iveragh is home to the Ring of Kerry, a picturesque drive that follows the coast through country towns and mountain passes.

Kerry: 1-3 days
Killarney's a good base, though Kenmare has also been recommended to me. There's also Killorglin, home to the famous Puck Fair, held every August.
Killarney's a bit of a bigger, touristy town, lots of pubs, but with easy access to the beautiful National Park. This contains the famous lakes, Ladies' View, Ross Castle, and offers fantastic views of the mountains.



On the Ring of Kerry, all the coaches go around anti-clockwise, so I reckon it's nicer to go in the opposite direction. You'll pass through Moll's Gap, Sneem, Castle Cove, Caherdaniel, and Waterville. From here you can make a diversion out to Portmagee and the Skellig ring. Every morning the boats leave for Skellig Michael, a monastery built on a rock of an island in the Atlantic. Sailings are weather-dependent, so if you can, give yourself a couple of mornings in the area to increase your chances of making it out. There's also a bird sanctuary, and seals if you're lucky.



Continuing around the ring, you'll come through Caherciveen, birthplace of Daniel O'Connell, an Irishman who campaigned for civil rights for Catholics in the 19th century. He's often referred to as the Emancipator. Caherciveen is a another town that's a nice overnight stop. It has a nice museum in an old police barracks, and some old ring forts nearby (Cahergal), and a castle (Ballycarbery). Say hello to Philip in the Shebeen pub if you like. If you're there in August, the town holds a festival over the bank holiday weekend.



After Cahirciveen you'll pass some nice beaches, then through Killorglin, to return to Killarney.

Another possibility on the Iveragh peninsula is to climb Carrauntoohil, Ireland's highest mountain at just over 1,000m high. If you're an experienced hill walker, it shouldn't be much trouble for you, just be wary of using the severely eroded Devil's Ladder route. The Brother O'Shea route is a little longer, but less dangerous. If you're not very confident, I can recommend Outdoors Ireland for a guide.



Further north is the Dingle peninsula. Dingle is a wonderful little town, full of artisan shops, pubs with real character, restaurants that serve tonnes of delicious, fresh fish, and where they still speak the native Irish tongue. It's also home to Fungi the dolphin. You can head out in a yacht or a kayak to try catch a glimpse of him if you like.

In the area is Mount Brandon, upon which is an ancient pilgrimage route. It's very accessible, as long as you take it at your own pace and have the proper gear.



You can also try visit the Blaskets for a picnic, or take a surf lesson on Inch Strand.

One week in Ireland - Cork

Cork is Ireland's largest county, and the second largest city in the Republic. It often promotes itself as 'the real capital'. Similarly to Dublin, it's got great nightlife, with a good selection of pubs and clubs.

Cork city: 1-2 days
Your main landmark in Cork will be the St Patrick's Street/Grand Parade, the main shopping street. The bus tour is a good way to get acquainted with the city, or if you fancy a walking tour (and Cork is pretty compact), try Walk Cork. I did one of their tours before, and found it excellent.

• St Fin Barre's Cathedral
• Cork city gaol
• Cork public museum
• Fitzgerald Park
• CIT campus
• The Mardyke

For a proper old school pub, try the Castle Inn. Ask for the snug if you've got a small group of six or seven, and they'll let you in if nobody else is there. Other pubs in Cork that I've sampled and liked (though this is by no means a comprehensive list)

• The Oval
• Fionnbarra - great food, decent beer garden
• Sober Lane
• An Bróg
• Fred Zeppelins - rock bar, though they wouldn't play NIN for us one night. Instead they played Billy Joel

Outside of Cork is Blarney Castle, where you can kiss the famous Blarney stone, and get the gift of the gab. And possibly a disease or two.

One week in Ireland - Tipperary

There's two sites in Tipperary that I think are worth a visit for every visitor, one more so than the other, but if you've got time, squeeze them both in. If you're driving from Dublin to Cork (or vice versa of course), you'll pass right by them, only a small detour.

Tipperary: 1 day

• The Rock of Cashel

An acropolis-type site, the Rock can be seen from miles around. It's been a while since I last visited, but you could easily spend a couple of hours looking around. Buildings include a round tower, a cathedral, a chapel, and plenty of high crosses.

• Cahir Castle

I'm not sure why this castle sticks in my mind so much. It's probably been about ten years, but I remember it as a very well preserved site, with great information. Probably ideal for a lunch stop, and a quick look around.