Day 30 - Beijing-Xi'an train

Standing tickets are proving to be an experience indeed. Except for warnings against tourists buying them, and the potential of violence (apparently), we had no idea what to expect.

Coming into Beijing West was like entering an airport. We headed for platform 13, which was actually waiting room 13, which was like a departure lounge. Down to platform 8 for the train, passing soft sleeper and hard sleeper carriages, we got to our carriage, no. 8. It seemed like the majority of passengers were trying to cram in to our carriage. Once we got in, we realised why.

Picture your typical Galway-Dublin train, with maybe 100 seats. Then sell another 70 tickets. Luckily there are not many people with massive rucksacks like ours, but the aisle is still jammed. 20 minutes before the train pulls off, it is already chaotic. Everyone is standing around, so I take the initiative and shove the majority of my bag under a seat, and plonk myself down on the protruding tip. A man beside me copies my example, but we are hip-to-hip across the aisle, and it is not really wide enough. Our pelvises are wedged together. I gesture for him to shuffle forward a few inches on his small stool, and we can both sit comfortably, though we are still uncomfortably close! This is a feature of the standing ticket that one must quickly get used to.

We are the only Westerners in the carriage, a fact quickly spotted by the English-speaking passengers. Within minutes, I am chatting to a girl called Emerald, Dom is asking if people have heard of Craig David, and Kelly is conversing in French. I soon have a list of recommendations for Chengdu, and an offer to try find better/cheaper accommodation, and a guide.

If this were Beijing, I'd be running away, but I've noticed and stated it several times - Chinese people are amazingly friendly. I'm perched on the corner of Emerald's seat at present, she insists on at least one of us using it. The only real downside so far is the complete inability to actually sleep at all, or even doze.

The natives lie with their heads on the tables, or else folded over in half, faces on their knees, their hair lying on the knees of the person opposite. They prop themselves up, three n a two seater bench, four on a three seater. Constantly cosy.

One incidence of over-cosiness - a fight broke out between two women at the end of the carriage, apparently someone touched off someone else while sleeping. One then started biting the other's head! Took a while to calm down. That was about 1am, it's 3am now, will try get some shuteye again.

[After everyone boarded and put their luggage in the overhead rack, a couple of attendants whisked through the carriage, and tidied up the rack so that there was maximum efficiency in the use of space. Great service!]

At the start of the journey. It's hard to give an impression of
how many people were there, because of all the people in the way.

Dom, much later into the journey. The digital clock was stuck at 01:10.

***

8.30am After a delay of an hour, we've just been told there's another hour to go. I *really* want to get off this train.

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-120-beijing-then-train-to-xian.html

Day 29 - Beijing

Sitting in the hostel bar, waiting for Dom and Kelly to return from the Bird's Nest stadium. Spent the last hour looking at our accommodation options. They're not great. Virtually nothing in Chengdu. I'm considering not even spending a night there. Just arrive at 5am, see the pandas, then leave in the afternoon for Kunming.

I'm filled with a sense of trepidation, apprehension. The first independent leg of our journey will not be smooth. I know we'll manage, but I'm still worried. Part of me misses the security of the organised tour, but the bigger part of me is bursting to push onwards to Vietnam.

I already miss the friends I've made, and wonder what sort of people I'll meet along the way from now on. Will they hold a candle to the VT group? No doubt a few will. At least I hope so.

And I'm already anticipating crossing paths with them again - SE Asia, Perth, AS, Sydney, NZ. And when I return home, there'll be plenty across the pond. Hollie will have returned from South America, though Kim will have uni. Not sure when Seb & Nicci return - June? And it may be years before Dom comes back.

Heh. My mind has returned to trying to organise and plan, to distract itself from the uncertainty of next week. I'm definitely out of my comfort zone! But that's what the Trip is all about, so bring it on!

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-119-beijing.html

Day 28 - Beijing

Motleys have left for the airport. SADFACE. Talked to M on Skype, good to hear the familiar voice.

Spent the morning shopping around for a hard drive, only found two shops that sold them - really hope the one I bought works, and isn't counterfeit. Then visited the National Museum.

Usual cloakroom on the way in, but they helpfully told me to bring my camera. Very reasonable rules about photography - no flash, no tripod, and some galleries are verboten, but otherwise okay. After receiving a very light pat down by a female guard, my jaw hit the floor. Place is HUGE! Made my way straight to the 'Ancient China' hall and raced through. I could only stop briefly, despite so much being in English - only one afternoon to see everything. Fascinating artefacts, and the exhibition was excellently laid out. Didn't need any arrows, there was a natural flow to the room. Unfortunately, the building didn't have such an asethetic, and a lack of floorplans was not helpful.

Found a small exhibition on the Incas, and then an artistic display. Bizarre ideas - "what if we could modify plans to make sounds?" "What if cat breeders were scientists?" And some outrageous installations. Mind = blown.

Also amazing was the permanent "Road to Rejuvenation", the story of how the Chinese people overthrew their colonial oppressors, and semi-feudal system, to become a superpower. Massively propagandic, but interesting nonetheless. Lots of sculptures depicting the glorious people.

***

Saw a most unusual tour group this morning. A group of Chinese, barely out of their teens (if even), being led by what seemed an ex-military type. Bit shouty - "this is DECISION TIME!" and full of cryptic phrases. "They'll be watching them, and they'll be watching you." Funniest was saved for last - "this is FREEDOM! Now, don't walk more than three abreast."

***

I had been thinking that the men dressed in green standing guard on various street corners (there's one in a booth directly opposite the hostel) and at Tienanmen Square were police officers. I only realised my mistake when I saw some actual police in dark blue uniforms this afternoon.

That means the military is *everywhere*. They patrol around in pairs, like bobbies on the beat, they march in formation at the Summer Palace, in Tienanmen Square. Often they are accompanied by white-shirted men, possibly cadets. Tracksuited individuals sometimes take up the rear. I'm not sure if these are even newer or more junior trainees, but they can sometimes be seen laughing and joking, unbeknownst to the soldiers in front.

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-118-beijing.html

Day 27 - Beijing

Happy news again today - M is back with S! Feel like today is going to be a good day. Going to see Mao and the Forbidden City, then maybe the 768 District. Then a kung fu show before dinner.

***

After the pub yesterday, due to some crossed wires and a complete lack of knowledge about where the night market was, I ended up walking for a few hours by myself. Sobered me up.

Was approached by a random Chinese girl, who was hinting that I should come visit her gallery. She was actually very friendly, and put me on the right track to the night market.

Met Scott and Ali there, and Dom and Kelly. Tried some small scorpion, and silkworm. Then a big scorpion.

The girls got a bit lost, but we found them, and watched some cultish line dancing in the square.

Was approached by what I thought originally was a friendly tourist, but I think may have been a pimp feeling me out. He didn't offer the sell.

Out to the Olympic stadia then - big disappointment. Not lit up at all. Saw some kids roller-blading though, kinda cool.

***

Had to finish this morning's entry somewhat prematurely due to the arrival of others for breakfast. The small scorpion was quite crunchy and tasty, but the larger one was not quite as edible. The silkworm was not quite revolting, but not far  off. The smell of the uncooked food was slightly nauseous at times, raw seafood mixed with rotting waste.

***

Chinese people have in general, been extremely friendly. Outside the Summer Palace, someone pointed us in the direction we needed, before we 'd even tried to ask for directions. They wave happily, and smilel often. We've also suffered the phenomenon of having our photos taken as whiteys, both 'subtly' and with asking permission. I encountered it first at the Temple of Heaven, but the girls were very popular in the evening at Tienanmen Square. Today, one man quite blatantly pointed at Brigitte's legs. It's outrageous!

***

This morning we visited Mao's mausoleum. The security checks were rigorous, though nobody actually checked our IDs. The girls weren't allowed in with their open-toed sandals, so we swapped shoes and took turns.

The contrast with Lenin was most obvious in the amount of people in the tomb. Before, it was just myself and Nicci. This time there was a constant stream of visitors, many carrying roses. A lot o f Chinese obviously still hold Mao in great regard, perhaps because many still remember him. The actual corpse appeared far more waxen than Lenin's. Wonder if they use the same technique...

After that we moved on to the Forbidden City. Yet another monumental Beijing landmark. As Kim put it, it's relentless. Everything in Beijing is huge - the city centre is the size of Dublin between the canals, while the Forbidden city is the size of Dublin centre. It's magnificent, but I think by that point we were suffering monument fatigue.

A Chinese family sat next to us while we took a break - cute, until we saw the baby's bottomless trousers in action. Practical, but not pleasant.

Exiting the far side of the city, though we could follow the river south, but the bank is the HQ of the Communist Party. We were moved on from standing too close to it on a bridge. Lot of security in the area, but one friendly Chinese man explained it to us.

Found another park - another oasis of bliss, though everywhere is invaded by the smog. That one feature is all that prevents me from putting Beijing on some list of top cities. Smoking in the bars and spitting are the other negatives. I guess the core problem is the sheer number of people, which leads to a huge number of cars and traffic. The hot, still climate doesn't help either.

***

Dinner in the hostel before heading to the Kung Fu show. Spectacular really, but I couldn't enjoy it fully due to bladder issues. Keep feeling a need to relieve myself, but not able to. Not sure if it's due to under-hydrating, or if I've picked up some infection.

My legs are in bits with bites, scrapes and cuts. Right calf has a huge knot, and my right sock is bloodstained. Sore throat persists, and chafing downstairs is not pleasant (due to the heat). Got some Vaseline though, and some Chinese medication for my throat. Foul-tasting stuff.

***

Our Vodkatrain group is breaking up gradually. First we lost Andy, like a thief in the night. Half of Team Swiss was suffering with food poisoning when we said goodbye. Jake slipping through the cracks. First full goodbye was to Seb & Nicci today, which wasn't too bad, I know I'll see them in AS at Christmas. Not looking forward to parting with the Motley sisters tomorrow.

***

First definite Irish accent I've heard the whole trip. 01.45 27/9/2011. Surprised it took this long.

***

Two copies of 'On Change' from the Harvard Business Review on the bookshelf here. Random.

***

Beer is 10RMB here. Insane. About €1.20. For 640ml.

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-117-beijing.html

Day 26 - Beijing

Still haven't managed to process news of Mrs C's death. Reread M's email - they took her off life support yesterday. Not sure when the funeral is, nor how I can best be there for L. Sent her a text late on Sat, and emailed last night.

Was up 'til 4.30 this morning. Sat by myself in the dark with a whiskey. Sent a few proper emails, including a big one with snippets from this journal. Found an email from L from last week, when everything was fine, and she was looking forward to her US holiday with P.

Fuck. I don't know the right thing to say, to do, to write. I can't imagine what she must be going through. And there's nothing I can do to make it better. No hope that she'll pull through, no potential for a miracle. It's death. Fuck.

***

A few of us walked home after the market yesterday. Taking in Beijing by foot. Came to Tienanmen Square, and spent an hour or so there. Lots of police, security checks - in fact, one at every subway station. The square itself is massive, biggest in the world apparently. Lots of people milling around, including a few who wanted photos with us whiteys. Strangest of all are the two giant video screens, showing images of Chinese landscapes and Mao. Propaganda? Brain washing? Tourist campaign?

***

New hostel is a very hip backpacker place. Cheap pub in front, 10RMB for a big beer, nice food. Come to Beijing and never leave your hostel. Was exactly what we needed last night though - a chilled night. Jakes's leaving today actually, I hope I see him for a goodbye. We had a nice chat last night, I know we're not the same kind of person, he's far more of a leader, but we have a good understanding. I should look him up for a pint in Perth.

Pub played cheesy music like "I will survive" and a Grease medley. Pseudo-karaoke with Brigitte was good fun. Then all went to bed.

***

I think I have too much of a dependence on being needed. A need to be helpful. The great Catholic guilt, putting others first, even at the expense of my own well-being. Give away money, food, clothes - if someone else needs it, then why not?

This is why I'm find it so difficult with L - I have no idea how to help her, to make things better, to protect her. Instead I'm enjoying my holidays, drinking and sightseeing. It seems so callous, like I should be in mourning here.

All of which meant I wasn't great company this morning. Myself, Dom and Kelly went to the train station to book our tickets for Xi'an. The sleeper on the train we wanted was full, so we opted for "standing" tickets. Looking forward to seeing what that entails!

We took the subway out to the Summer Palace then, and had a wander around. It was like a giant collection of Oriental follies, but of course they are temples. There was so much potential for beauty, but the smog here just smothers all the colour. Every view is choked with grey. It's rather disgusting really - the back of my throat burns. Possibly also explains why the Chinese spit so much.

***

L just texted to say her mother passed peacefully.

***

Sitting in a Brazilian bar at the moment. Was aiming for an English pub, but it closed a year ago. Had to wander around the embassy district to try find it. Benin, USA, Japan, Slovenia... I was moved on from standing outside the Irish embassy!

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-116-beijing.html

Day 25 - Beijing

We're wandering around the huge Pearl Market, a collection of stalls and traders, all hawking knock-off goods at sellout prices. Decided to leave before I spent any more money. Got a watch for 55RMB, two memory cards, two memory sticks and a gorillapod. Very tempted to buy prescription sunglasses too.

***

Spent this morning pottering around the Temple of Heaven, which is a vast garden, containing several imposing buildings. Some of the most impressive wooden structures that I've ever seen.

There was also the Alter of the Circular Mound (what it sounds like) with one round stone in the middle on top. There was a queue of people waiting to stand on it for a photo, but a big tour group arrived and started jumping on the stone. Pushing and shoving ensued, with a few raised voices. It was the first time that I've seen angry Chinese people.

Also had a random woman want a photo with me. Thought they were offering to take a picture of me, or wanted me to take one of them, but instead I was a zoo attraction.

***

Big night last night - last one of the official tour. We had a hotpot - a Chinese tradition, much like a fondue party. There are two halves to the pot - plain and spicy. Then you order small plates of meat and veg, and throw them in the pot to cook. We had beef, mutton, golden needle mushrooms, some sort of artificial seafood called haggis, and sheep pizzle. Yep, pizzle was on the menu. Sheep penis. Very tough meat, not pleasant to eat at all really, though most of the table got into the spirit of it, and tried at least some. Never has the word 'penis' been used so much at dinner.

Went back to the hotel for a quick drinking game - Pyramid, and then to the reggae bar again. There was some impromptu dancing - Scott and Ali were both impressive and entertaining!

Found a club afterwards, and danced for a couple of hours. Sadly I only recognised one or two of the songs, made me feel a little older than I am. Had fun dancing with the girls though, and Dom joined us for one.

***

Bit sad now, with the group breaking up. We seem to have already lost Team Swiss. Today is Regine's birthday, so hopefully they're celebrating somewhere.

***

Text from home - 62-12 in the Russian game. M emailed last night as well. Himself and S have broken up, and L's mam had a brain haemorrhage. Not sure what the prognosis is, but haven't managed to send a comfort text yet - network is not letting me.
So far on this trip I've had good news of a pregnancy and an engagement. Bad news has been L's mam, S's father, and M&S's break-up. Email/text is not a nice way to get bad news. Emphasises the isolation of being away from home.

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-115-beijing.html

Day 24 - Beijing

On the way to the Great Wall - Mutianyu section. Met Lily, our honcho, at the station yesterday. She's been living in Beijing for five years, and is a full time tour guide, with a flag and all!

Rooming with Dom again, which suits us both. Went for dinner in a local restaurant - lots of duck. Then seven of us headed to the bar district. We had one round of atrocious mojitos, before finding a Jamaican bar with cheap drinks and a shish. After a couple of rounds there we went to find somewhere with some dancing music, but the only likely venue was charging €6 for a beer. Back to the Jamaican bar!

***

Got news yesterday that Tomo, S's father, passed away. He had a minor heart attack and went into a coma on Sunday, lost the fight on Thursday. Emailed S my condolences, which seems so impersonal, but there wasn't much else I could do. Tried to call house, but nobody answered. Tried Claire and Laura as well, eventually managed after the very nice girl at the reception let me use her computer to by credit.

Talking to Laura only made me homesick really. No big news at home - Eimear got engaged. Conor has his Java exam coming up, Laura's back in class. Didn't even mention Tomo in the end. The memory of sitting on his balcony sharing beer and peach schnapps with apple will always be a great one. Such a friendly man.

***

Chinese people are super friendly. Even now on the bus, a military man in the car next to us is waving and making funny gestures.

Pancake at the Great Wall

***

Beijing is obviously a metropolis, with a bustle similar to London or New York. The bar area last night was very busy and traffic right now is bumper to bumper as far as the eye can see. There doesn't appear to be any obvious symptoms of socialism - capitalism has a free rein. No Facebook though.

***

On the way back from the Great Wall, everyone is a little tuckered out. There's no conversing, apart from Lily and the driver. Jake is reading, everyone else is asleep or listening to music. Had a little doze myself. Didn't expect there to be so much work involved in seeing the Great Wall! Everyone seems to have lapsed into a puddle of sweat, bar Regine, who has a healthy tolerance for the heat. Walked up 1200 steps (allegedly), and along through watchtowers 10-14, before turning and coming back to tower six to get a toboggan slide back down to the bottom. The views from the top were amazing, and to the north one could see further sections of the wall, the towers like sentinels along the ridge of the next set of mountains. It truly is a great wonder. The amount of effort, man hours and indeed lives it must've cost to build are unimaginable.

Dom doing Rocky up the steps

Andy and Jake's kung fu shot

Group shot!

Had another taste of haggling, something I'm going to have to get used to I guess. I was considering buying a lampshade hat. Started at 380RMB (~€45), and she dropped to 20RMB by the end, but I had lost interest at that stage. Dom told me it's considered offensive to start haggling and not buy when the price is dropped to the agreed rate, and he's dead right.

Seb and Nicci, with Kim behind

Myself and Hollie had a conversation with a friendly guy in the toboggan queue. US by birth, he had fluent Russian, and some Chinese. He provided us with quite a few tips from his time working in Beijing. His wife is ill with cancer, and it was obviously weighing heavily on him. Must make sure to email him.

Hollie, you're a tiger!

whee!

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-114-beijing.html

Day 23 - UB-Beijing train

Sharing a carriage with Brigitte, Dom and Nicci. It's 9am, and they're still asleep. We had a late night thanks to the border crossing. Started at 7pm on the Mongolian side, finish at 1am Chinese side.

When we hit the Chinese side, the entire train was pulled into a huge warehouse. There, each carriage is raised, like a car at a mechanic's, and the bogeys (undercarriage) exchanged for new ones. This is because the Chinese rail has a narrower gauge. It was a long process, but at least one can look into the other carriages while it happens, to distract from the fact that there's no access to the toilet.

We had a little bonding conversation about first and worst dates. Smart bars, the zoo, a nice walk - were suggested ideal first dates. I shared the story of my date with Niamh Q, and Dom that his hot work colleague who stood him up. Managed to catch Hollie out with the ghost story about the dog who died the day I was born. hehe! She screamed and pummelled me with her lady fists!

***

The Chinese trains offer a far nicer experience than the Russian ones. The attendants are much friendlier - male on this train. They often wander the corridor with their ties off and shirts hanging out, and then they are immaculate at the border crossing in their spick and span uniforms.

In both Russia and Mongolia (and I'm expecting the same in China), the military are far more prevalent. Just wandering around the street. I could count on hand the amount of people I've seen in Ireland in fatigues over the last year, but it was not uncommon to pass ten soldiers walking with their sweethearts over the course of a day in St Petersburg or Moscow.

***

Speeding through the countryside of China now, very agricultural, lots of dry-looking crops, and the occasional motorway. Plenty of trees too.

The people are friendly and wave while taking a break to watch the train go by. Lots of corn, some sunflowers. Every now and then we pass an industrial complex, spewing forth smoke and fumes, evidence of China's economic power.

***

Travelling by train has been fun, though this journey has possibly been tougher than the Trans-Siberian. The border crossings make for unpleasant waits, particularly with regard to using the toilet. The timing of the Mongolia-China crossing ruled out any drinking games, so we had no entertainment in that regard. Instead we had a return to old-fashioned conversation, which was nice.

The train lets you glimpse a cross-section of the country, winding through wasteland and farms, snaking into the cities and out again. It's quite exhilarating to stick one's head out the windows and feel the wind batter the face and whip the hair. I wonder what I'll feel about train transport in Ireland when I get back.

***

Solar panels all over the place here - lots of houses have their own panel mounted on the roof.

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-113-train-from-ub-to-china.html

Train stops

Moscow - Irkutsk
Day 1: Yaroslavl
  Daavilov

Day 2: Sharya
  Panazyrevo
  Kirov
  Balezino
  Perm
  Ekaterinburg*
  Bahenovo

Day 3: Tyumen
  Karasulsk
  Ishim
  Omsk
  Barabinsk
  Novosibirsk*

Day 4: Taiga
  Mariinsk
  Krasnoyarsk*
  Ilanskaya
  Taishet
  Nizhnendinsk

Day 5: Zima
  Irkutsk freight
  Irkutsk

Irkutsk - Ulaanbaatar
Day 1: Siyudyanka
  Baikulsk
  Vydrino
  Ulan-Ude
  Naushki
----
  Sukhe-Bator (Mongolia)

Day 2: Dzun-Khava
  Ulaanbaatar

Ulaanbaatar - Beijing
Day 1: Choir
  Sainshand
  Zamyn-Uud
----
  Erlian (China)

Day 2: Juning
  Datung
  Zhanzhiukon
  Beijing

Day 22 - UB-Beijing train

On the train again, leaving UB, headed for Beijing. Border crossing and bogey change due tonight.

Last full day in the ger camp, we visited a local nomad farmer. He had two yurts, a curious mix of old and new - a satellite dish and fridge, powered by solar energy, while dairy produce dried out on the roof, covered in flies. They seemed roomy enough, but his existence probably isn't easy. There were some leftover presents in the bag in the corner, with a 'True Blue Aussie' flag protruding from the top.

In the afternoon we tried some Mongolian archery and learned how to play a game with sheep knuckles. Each side of the bone represents an animal - sheep, goat, horse and camel.

WINNARS!

***

In a fascinating and baffling move, there are some Japanese landscapers installing a waterfall feature here. Very friendly fellow in charge, enjoying his job.

***

We returned to UB the following morning, and half the city was obscured by smog. The traffic was pretty heavy, and we witness some crazy overtaking manoeuvres. Nothing compared to our taxi ride later that evening - our drive invented extra lanes at any opportunity. At one point, on a regular two way road, which already had two lanes of traffic going our way (not moving), he decided to drive the wrong way down the opposite side of the road. That's when we got out.

I thought Russian driving was bad, but the Mongolians are far worse. Crossing the street is a game of life and death and willpower. The cars do seem to stop when necessary, but the pedestrian cannot show a moment's hesitation. I think it might be part of the UB experience, to lead a road crossing.

***

Went on a walk with Lukas on our last morning in the ger camp. Underestimated it a bit, but got back in time for breakfast.

***

Went for lunch yesterday in Café Amsterdam. Dawa chose it, but it was an obvious Lonely Planet destination, full of English-speaking travellers. It was a glimpse into the future for me. There is a 'look' to everyone - a kind of semi-cool aloofness. I think I'll try avoid LP-recommended places where possible.

***

After that was a trip to the National History Museum. Everything was in English, which was superb, and it filled in lots of gaps in my knowledge of the history of Mongolia. It got a bit propaganda-ish toward the end. The communist takeover of 1921 is still called the Great Democratic Revolution.

Tar éis sin, half the group went shopping, and the other half of us went to see a monument atop a hill on the outskirts of the city. Celebrating the Mongolian-Russian relationship, the views of the city were excellent.

One could really see that UB is on the cusp of an economic boom. One modern glass building has been completed, and several apartment blocks are nearly so. There was even plans for a hotel right underneath the monument. Progress, I guess.

***

Step count at the war memorial:
Dom - 644
Kim - 607
Me - 615

***

Werewolves and Farmers, as played by Lukas, Regine and Brigitte
Cards are dealt - 4 Kings for 4 werewolves, 1 Queen for the witch, 1 Jack for the hunter, and clubs for farmers.

First night: all close eyes, werewolves open to find each other. Gamesmaster takes note of them, and witch, and hunter.

First day: all vote to kill one person, hopefully a werewolf. If tied, all vote again just for tied people.

Second night: all close eyes. Werewolves open eyes, and agree on a target to kill.

Repeat day and night until all werewolves are killed, or the werewolves have a majority.

Each night, after werewolves have selected their target, the witch may use her good or bad essence. Good will save the werewolves' target, bad will kill one person of the witch's choice.

If the hunter is killed, they will shoot another person, so both die.

***

Mongolian countryside is really flat scrubland, beige and brown. The sky is inevitably clear and blue. All in all, beautiful.

***

Passing through the Gobi. Just stopped in Sainshand, and walked the length of the train. Don't seem to be any Chinese people on the train bar the attendants. Might even have another Irish guy.

Long shadows in the Gobi

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/09/sidenote_21.html
http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/10/day-112-ulaanbaatar.html

Day 21 - Ger Camp

47° 52' 50" N, 107° 25' 44" E - co-ordinates of GuruTravel Ger Camp

Our camp

Ger in progress

With satellite dish

Wild eagle

***

http://domcheeseman.blogspot.ie/2011/09/day-111-ger-camp.html