Day 153 - Mt Cook

Forgot to mention that I lost my Laotian sunnies in the Sound yesterday. Slipped off my head, and straight to the bottom. Pissed off with myself. Head down early to the terminal, hoping to see the Stray gang. The Juicy desk girl tells me I can get on an earlier bus, which sounds like a flan to me. Stray bus appears - Dutch couple, Michelle, Lena, Jen and Áine, Leanne, Inge, and Rachel.

Last picture of the sunnies, with Skirts

The bus journey back to Queenstown is a contemplative one. They sky is the most perfect shade of blue here. Am I falling in love with this place? For the first time on my travels, I ponder the possibilities of never going home, in a serious manner. Could I do it? NZ seems like such a beautiful place. The people I've met in the past two weeks are among the friendliest and most genuine of anyone over the past six months.

We drive through farmlands from Te Anau to Q'town. Gazing out the window, I am struck with guild that I am only passing through. Why is Milford Sound so privileged? This area is populated by people who are ignored and neglected by tourists like me. I am not travelling here. I should be making my own way - by bike or car. Occasionally being forced to throw myself on the mercy of strangers - for mechanical assistance, or just some milk.

But I am already in debt. Flights, trains, accommodation. AIB helped pay for this, and dues must be paid. I truly doubt that I could find a job here that would come with enough of a salary to suffice  But maybe I could return in the future. Before I am 30. And therefore old. :P

***

Got back to Black Sheep around 7.30pm yesterday eve. Back in room 12. There is an Australian girl, Hannah, freshly arrived in Q'town from Auckland. She's worked on Waiheke Island for the last two years, and has eleven days to see the south island before her return to Australia. We establish a quick little bond, and I invite for her a drink. I'm meeting Sascha later on, plan is to share a shisha. Quick dinner of tortellini, and go.

Get to the World Bar, share some jugs of ale. Sascha is busy half-heartedly fending off a drunk but friendly Australian, whom she obviously already knows. Hannah and I talk for most of the night - about family, religion, tea, NZ and Australia. Heidi appears around midnight and there is some half-assed dancing. Myself and Hannah resume our chatting, and call it a night around 1am. I have to catch the bus at 9am the next morning. Say bye to Heidi and Sascha's friends. We pass Sascha and her drunken Aussie by the Gardens on the way home. I'm out like a light instantly, only to be woken by a roommate because I am snoring. oops! Sleep on my front instead.

***

Up early, porridge, check out. Said bye to Hannah, gave her my email address. Hop on the Stray bus - HP is driving, and I recognise German Heidi, Esther and Corney. HP makes everyone stand up and say their name and favourite thing in NZ. Loads of people mention the Tongariro crossing, so I'm very glad I made sure it would be on my itinerary. I also pick up some Irish lilts, at least four of them on the bus, all girls. Lot more guys overall though.

Toilet stop, lunch stop, supermarket stop. At one point, HP reads us the story of Shrek, a Merino sheep who ran away and hid for six years. When found, his wool coat was massive, and he became an NZ celebrity.

Driving was erratic due to strong winds. I took the time to painfully write some overdue emails. I'm only with this bus for one night, so not particularly concerned with making lots of new friends. The landscape outside is spectacular - bluish-grey glacial rivers, sweeping rocky mountains.

We arrive at our hostel, I'm in a room with Irish Ríona, Dutch Martin, and Becky. HP drives us the short distance to where the Hooker Valley walks start. Dramatic is the best term to describe the mountains topped by glaciers, the river spray being whipped up by the insanely strong wind. The front of the hostel was ripped off in October by 180kmph winds. Today they're not so strong, but enough to knock me off balance, and force me to struggle. I walk with Heidi. We cross a couple of wooden suspension bridges, swaying gently despite the strong wind, rocking as we walk across.

There's a small hut about halfway along the trail for shelter, and even two toilets. We take a small break, then back out into the gale. We start to pass people coming back the other way, giving us snippets of information - warnings and hope! We round a corner, and Hooker Lake opens up before us. It's full of large chunks of ice, presumably fallen from the the heights above. They are twisted and eroded in various ways, so that the lake resembles a junkyard of ice, a graveyard of icebergs, dying glaciers.

The wind buffets us on the way back too, calm one moment, stormy the next. Meet two other hikers in the shelter, they tell us that the weather was clear as anything the day before - not a cloud in the sky, and perfect views of Aoraki/Mt Cook. Today the tip is completely obscured by mist and cloud, and it's only getting worse.

Back to the hostel for dinner, shower, quiet pint.

***

Rahotu in Piopiotahi - Mitre Peak in Milford Sound, in Māori

Day 152 - Milford Sound

Being in Queenstown reminds me of Vang Vieng. Lots of partying, good atmosphere, and everybody knows everyone once they've been here a few days. I find myself being greeted (a nod or a smile) in the street by people I don't quite recognise, and I do the same to others. In the most recent instance, it's only afterwards my consciousness realises they're my Swiss roommates.

There's an inclusive cemetery here - no boundary fence nor wall. Chinese, Jewish, Anglican, Catholic - all together, side by side. Lots of McBrides and O'Neills, Galway and Tyrone. A Collins grave. Some older statues, dramatic against the mountains.

***

I've got this empty void within me. I'm not sure its root. Missing R? The whole gang of Strays? Or the fact that I'm only three weeks from the end of this adventure, never to be repeated. Or if it is, I'll be past thirty, and not really one of the regulars. I have this regret, that I should have done this years ago - taken a chance on a working visa, and taken off. but my sensibilities would never allow it, not then. Maybe now?

***

Kayaking this morning was just perfect. Up at 6am to make porridge and tea. Rendezvous in the lounge with four others - Lithuanians and Estonians. Skirts (Paul) is our guide for the morning. I'm paired up with him, the engine to his rudder. We suit up in the most ridiculous long-johns, while a long white mist hangs over the lake. It's as calm as a millpond, and the reflections are stunning. The others are first timers, so we have a leisurely pace, myself and Skirts chatting amiably while the others get used to kayaking.

We come out into the openness of the sound, following the far coast, hugging the rocks. We spy a couple of seals ahead. Around the corner, and there's about ten of them frolicking in the water. They're completely unafraid of us, slipping under the boats, waving their tails and peeking at us inquisitively. We paddle under Stirling Falls, a more dramatic encounter than yesterday - the wind pushing us back is mighty! We break on a small beachy out crap, after three hours on the water.

Skirts

Very hard to get a good photo when the seals and kayak are both constantly moving

Stirling Falls

When we get back in the kayaks and attempt to head further out toward the Tasman Sea, a strong sea breeze has sprung up and battling against it is draining. We decide to raft up and hitch a lift instead. While we wait, Skirts entertains us with tales of life in Milford. They have a naked tunnel run every April 1st, with Ken and Barbie dolls for first placed guy and girl. [They also get completely cut off during the winter.]

The Balticians (I made that up) are like larger than life stereotypes. "Good is not bad". "Bad is not good". They related the tale of the fisherman they met who caught only one fish - "one fish is no fish".

Day 151 - Milford Sound

26th was a bit of an odd day. Supposed to be a long day of travel, with some photo stops. Lake Matheson, Knight's Point. Then as we had just come out of Haast, we got a flat tyre - inside rear on the right hand side. Snowflake pulled in immediately and set about getting help. Wasn't anything we could do, so broke out the frisbee and rugby ball, started a big game of catch in a handily located field. Whole lot of fun! Michael Wolf, Gea, René, Leah, Olly, Gemma, Heidi, Rachel, Manuel, Elaine, Jen, Audrey, Stefan - everyone having good simple fun! One of the highlights of the trip - bonding agus craic!

When we got underway again, we stopped at Kumaru bridge, site of the original bungy ump. Little video which made me kinda want to do a jump, where before I'd been entirely indifferent to the idea. Still prefer the idea of the freestyle Shotover Canyon Swing though.

Snowflake dropped me at the Black Sheep Lodge. It's pouring rain as I heave my bags in. Get to my room and pop my sunnies and jumper onto the bed. Go down and make some sandwiches because I'm famished. Back to the room to find my stuff on a shelf, and a hairbrush on my bunk. Decide it was the cleaners and that the brush is Sascha's, a young German girl from Lubeck who is in the lower bunk. Make my bed and head into town to meet the gang.

Pizza and teapots of shooters make a good dinner. Move on to Altitude bar where Michelle grabs me for a couple's bungy unning competition. We have to go first of six teams, and hold onto our first place position until the fifth and final team smashes our time, and steals the prize from us. Nevertheless, it's a fantastic night, dancing on tables, dancing barefoot, dancing with Rachel. Everyone is having a super time. Snowflake keeps passing his free beer to me, and the night doesn't wind down 'til late. Walk Rachel and Heidi home, with a quick goodnight kiss.

Back to the Black Sheep, where I strangely get in at the same time as Sascha, who appears to have been lying in wait. In the dorm, there is already someone in my bed. She's still awake, Suzy from Wisconsin. We're not sure who's in the wrong, so I grab some spare blankets and stretch out on the floor. I'm asleep in seconds.

***

Next morning (27th), myself and the receptionist discover the mistake is Suzy's. For simplicity's sake I swap keys with her. She doesn't have to move her stuff, and the hostel staff don't have to make up a new bed. Sascha's checking in to a different hostel, so I help her with her bags. I potter about town a bit - it's quite small - and bump into René and Leah. They've returned from their bungy jump (René has a brilliant video where he screams like a girl), and we end up taking the gondola up the nearby hill. The luge and Ledge Bungy are up here, and the views are spectacular. They have to rush off for another activity, and I while away an hour just admiring the scenery.

Sandwiches at the hostel for lunch. Notice my frisbee, notebooks and tablet are missing from my room. Ask one of the cleaners about it, and it transpires that she's packed them into someone else's rucksack! Luckily the rucksacks are still there, and she takes out my things. It's only the next morning that I realise my towels and shorts, which had been drying, are also gone. They're lost. The hostel replaces my travelling towel with a regular towel. Le sigh.

Head out to Queenstown Gardens, sit on the beach and watch the lake and mountains for a while. A steamship toots and moors at the wharf. Rachel comes to join me, just chilling out for a bit. We meet Heidi and Julia, and fail to play frisbee golf. Faff about for a bit, go to Fergburger with Rachel, and watch her eat a beast of a falafel burger. Split up, change at the hostel.

Got a text from Sascha about a theatre performance in the Gardens, so wander down to that. Local group performing scenes on the motif of 'Gold', including scenes from the history of Queenstown. Although it's occasionally hard to hear over the wind, it's an entertaining production. One of the actors is the receptionist from Sascha's hostel, who gives me a big wink at one point! A barbershop medley is my personal highlight, and seeing everything with the backdrop of the gorgeous gardens is only superb. Bit chilly is all.

Meet Rachel and Heidi and head to drink on the beach. The new Stray bus is in town, driven by HP. Dutch couple, RSA-German guy, the three Irish girls and Sabrina are on it. Get some fish and chips for dinner, and sit in a big circle sharing beers. Then it's Altitude again, which has a big ring of Japanese people. Sascha and her two friends come too. Rachel claims me early on, as Gea put it, kissing me at the bar when we arrive. The atmosphere in the bar's not the same as before, but it's still fun.

Unfortunately Gea receives some bad news about her grandparents being ill. After a couple of drinks, she is rather teary. I sit beside her, arm around her in comfort, and we idly talk. I try take her mind off it, and she's ready to return to the fold after a bit. Then she goes for a walk to clear her head before bed.

The party moves to the World bar, where we queue for a while. Heidi gets pissed off when one friend calls another 'Paki'. They're not offended, but she is. I try get her to drop it, but it's touched a nerve for her. We dance awhile there, but it's jammed. We all leave. Heidi heads home, while Rach and I return to Altitude. It's closed, so we sit on a bench in the small park beside it.

A guy announces he's going to take a leak behind us. "Beautiful", I retort. Then a policeman flashes his torch, picking him out and asking for ID. I'm not sure if he was fined or just warned.

I walk Rachel home, and head home myself. I'm now sharing a room with five Swiss, very friendly folk. Nobody's in my bed but me.

***

It's when I go to shower on the 28th that I realise my towels and togs are missing. Porridge for breakfast. It's my last full day in Queenstown, so I resolve to do at least one insane thing today. Rachel's not awake yet, so I go for a wander through the Gardens by myself. The wind is roaring through the trees, whipping spray onto the headland. I stop on a bench to savour the moment.

Walking again, I bump into Lena - herself, Es, Gea, Michelle and Brazilian Marie-Anna (who calls me 'the chocolate guy') are exploring the markets. A girl - Katie Raven - is playing guitar, and the sun is shining warmly between the clouds. Soon the plan of hiking to the top of the hill is gone, and we are splayed out on the grass.

I pop into Base Travel to confirm bookings for Milford Sound. Rachel [the agent] must be on her first day (or second) - she wants everything to be perfect, which takes aaages! Meet Áine, who does me the massive favour of queueing in Fergburger for my lunch. There's a big Stray crowd going luging, and a Palmerstown girl, Sinéad, booking a bungy. I copy her idea... why do I put myself in these corners?

Back to the market with Áine, only Rachel and Heidi there now. Jen and Elaine arrive, fresh from bed, and we five head up the gondola. Bungy approaching. Use the toilet. Check in. Chat to Sinéad. She was told the Irish are bad jumpers. Use the toilet again. Go down to the wee hut. Blonde curly-haired girl is ahead of me. Put on my harness. Blonde girl has vanished. Why am I surprised? Get clipped in.

Explain my cart-wheeling plan. I know if I have to concentrate on my take-off, the height will be forgotten. Cartwheel is disallowed. He suggests a front flip. I acquiesce. He explains the actions I must take. I veto the front flip, opting to just dive. He counts down:

3...

2...

1...

bungy!

I run.

Am I holding my breath? I know my eyes are squeezed tightly closed.

I keep running until I am falling. Fuck!

I'm still falling, breathless.

My eyes are open now, the trees are rushing past.

Feel the tautness of the cord begin to slow my descent. Start my hysterical roller-coaster laughing-to-keep-from-screaming laughter.

I'm still bouncing, swinging. It's the feeling of weightlessness.

An ecstasy that's a perfect counter to the initial terror of the jump overwhelms me.

I did it!

***

Found Valerie at the luge track then, a friend of Brendan's whom I met one night in Galway. She had invited me to stay with her, and to some free luging. Had a bit of a chat, then she gave me 2*5 free rides. Sweet as! Except Heidi and Rachel had wandered off, and Elaine didn't want a go as she was in a skirt, so myself and Elaine raced down over and over! Far more fun than I was expecting! And Val even sorted us out with some photos.

Heidi and Rachel on the ski/luge lift

Off the hill for the second trip of the day to Fergburger/. Three delicious monstrosities! Noticed the Irish rugby team had been in and left their autographs. Split up with plans to meet on the beach at 9.30.

Jen and Elaine were making pancakes at the hostel, got chatting to them while I sipped on a beer. Got warned for breaking the post-9pm no alcohol rule. Julia came by for a photo swapping session, and I realised I was pretty late for meeting H&R. Ran to Altitude to discover they weren't there yet. Ah! I'd left them on the freezing beach! Ran back to find them chatting to three Kiwis. I was not a popular person right then.

On to World, where I bought a teapot for my penance. After rather a short while dancing, Michelle, Gea and Esther suddenly said goodnight. Myself, H&R went around the corner to the Buffalo bar. They had no case, so I footed the bill for six vodka, lemon and limes, taking advantage of a 2-for-1 offer.

Heli, Paula and Stefan were there as well. Paula and Stefan did the 147m Nevis bungy that day, and Paula was quick to dismiss my paltry 43m drop. It was funny the first time, but I quickly became irritated. Stefan joined in at one point, but followed it up with a manly bro hug. Marius was there too, bizarrely. Knew the words to a lot of songs too.

***

Which finally brings us to today. After coming home at 2am, I woke at 7am, packed up and had a cup of black tea. Saw Elaine and Jen waiting at the gate, so said bye again. Stray bus pulled up - several hands waved at me from behind the tinted glass. Moving, and sincerely sweet.
Checked out, downtown to meet the bus. Russell is our driver, an informative and pleasant gentleman. Stop for tea in Te Anau. There's a street there called 'Wong Way' - hehe! Mirror Lakes and Gunn's Lake offer photo ops. Homer Tunnel - a testament to the power of men with pickaxes and dynamite. And big machinery. The scenery is breathtaking, almost overwhelming. Rivers gush and flow, cliffs tower overhead, bare strips where tree avalanches have occurred. Russell tells us about the native flora and fauna, and the introduced pests.

Takahe statue in Te Anau

It's at Knobb's Flat that Russell mentions we'll be arriving at Milford Sound at 15.00. My kayaking session is booked for 14.00. I use the payphone to call Rosco's and explain the situation, and they immediately agree to switch me to a morning session instead. Result! Back on the bus, a walk by the Cleddau river, before arriving at the ferry terminal.

On board, I get to chatting to a Kiwi girl from my bus. She's a travel agent from Auckland, sampling Stray so she can relate more to the customers. We pass travel stories back and forth while everyone rushes back and forth snapping photos. It hasn't rained in the past couple of days, so there are only a few waterfalls. These are flowing powerfully though, with Stirling Falls giving out a fine spray. The skipper steers the boat in perilously close, soaking us. Everyone takes it in good humour though. Some seals bask on a rock, and on the return to shore, about five dolphins race alongside, breaking the surface playfully. The day is complete.

Lady Bowen Falls

Stirling Falls

***

Spend the night in MS Lodge. Watch the sunset by the Cleddau, while the sandflies (Te Namu) nibble on me. Late dinner of noodles, and a quick Skype home.