I think this is the furthest behind I've gotten with my journal, which is a good sign of how busy I've been, and the quantity and quality of company I've kept.
When I left Broome, my sandals literally fell apart, and so were binned after 4 months of heavy usage. Got a bus to the Dingo Moon Lodge, and to Coles to get pasta and sauce. Chatted to an Offaly couple while cooking. Discovered Seb and Nicci are in town, called to their hotel and we went for a couple of drinks. Got back to the hostel late, to find that I had received tax back, and that Aoife had her baby! Little Donagh, healthy and happy! Got chatting to a Nordie and an English guy before retiring.
(23rd) Next morning I had the excellent free breakfast at the hostel - croissants and cereal! Met S&N for a wander down to the marina. Nearly everything in Darwin is closed - for the wet season, or far Christmas. There's also a potential cyclone. Spend all morning and afternoon at a café, just chatting and playing cards. Seb & Nicci are like old friends at this point, we've spent so much time together, really great just to hang out with them.
We part for dinner, and I find at the hostel that L&C have sent me a video tour of their new flat. It's a lovely present, and leaves me laughing and teary. It's lashing rain all evening - about three hours - and when it eases I head over to S&N's for some beer and cards. The TV signal keeps dropping because of the cyclone weather patterns. I get back to the hostel pretty late, and discover a music session. Didgeridoo, guitar, tambourine, box drum - it's a great vibe. An English guy supplies me with beer, a joint is passed around. A dread-locked Aussie jams with ease, and the vibe is fantastic, until one lad who's drunk too much much smashes his own guitar, and is ushered out.
Chatted with my German roommate a bit, auf Deutsch. She mistakes me for Swiss, which I take as a great compliment. Bed around 4.30am - the airport bus is coming at 5.45. Yay.
(24th) Flight is uneventful, AS is hot! Have to wait a while at the airport for pick-up. Sit and people-watch after I finish Terry Pratchett. Lots of fathers reuniting with their wife and kids, and grown children coming home for Christmas.
There's a lovely warm buzz about the place, and I chat to another couple of backpackers. Arrive at Annie's Place to find three Christmas cards - Mammy, Granny & Margaret, and Nora, who's also included tea bags. Get supplies for dinner in town, keep to myself for dinner, and head to the cinema to see Mission Impossible 4. Just don't want to spend C. Eve getting drunk. Head to midnight mass afterwards. Get to the church around 11.15, listen to the choir.
Next morning started just killing time, but a Dutch guy called Laurens invites us to share dinner with him, Aussie Jonnie, and Finnish Maria. We get to work chopping veg and buttering bread, and soon a feast is ready. Jonnie is irrepressibly happy. We spend the day drinking beer, playing in the pool, and smoking joints. The staff are having a party, so the bar is open. The day is far more enjoyable than it was first looking. French David actually went to McDonalds where he struggled to be served at the drive-through. He tried asking two women in a car to help him, but they flicked a cigarette at him instead!
The 26th was an extremely lazy day, spent by the pool, writing postcards in the 40°C heat. Did nought. Headed to ANZAC hill to watch the sunset, stopping in Woolworths to get some water. There I bumped into S&N again! Sunset was beautiful, a small crowd was gathered to watch it. Picked up S&N at their hostel (a quiet place), and back to Annie's for beer and cards. Gave them their presents of Aussie card decks, and they gave me a cool NT stubby holder. Huzzah for Christmas!
Picked up from Annie's on the 27th, me and a Kiwi Dan. Heavy rain and grey skies made for a dull drive, but time we got to our first stop - a camel farm - it had cleared up. The group was half Asian, half whiteys. An English couple, two Germans, a Swiss, an Aussie, the Kiwi and an English girl who lives in Bangkok working for the UN. Two Koreans and five Japanese completed our number.
Lots of driving until we reached our campsite for lunch. After that we did a short (7.4km) hike at Kata Tjuta - the Olgas. These are a collection of massive hulks of smooth rock, orange in the desert sun, giant domes conspicuous in the flatness of the red centre.
One closely resembled a jelly on a plate. The heat was uncomfortable, but would've been worse without the clouds. Reg, our guide, wouldn't let one girl do the full hike because she didn't have sufficient water. Real danger of dehydration out here.
While dinner was cooking at the campsite, we went up to a nearby lookout point to watch the sun set over Uluru. It was funny to think that Claire had stood in this same spot, watching the same spectacle a few years before. The sunset itself was more impressive than Uluru, which didn't glow red as expected, but the odd grey shade was bizarre, and cool to look at.
Broke out our swags then - essentially bed-sized tents. A canvas construction with an inbuilt mattress. Comfortable, but no insulation. Amazing to literally sleep under the stars. Orion, the Pleiades, the Milky Way. Not as clear as Mongolia, but still beautiful.
Up at 3.56am on the 28th, breakfast and bus to Uluru, where we walked around the base of the rock as the sun rose. I'm not sure of the root of the wonder, but it was easy to see why the Aborigines treated it as a sacred place. A gigantic monolith, pockmarked and scarred in places, black stains of waterfalls running down the sides. Surrounded by surprisingly lush greenery. The redness slowly becoming visible in the dawn glow, and finally direct sunlight setting it afire.
The legends of the Aboriginal people are explained in various info panels, showing where the stories are visible in the face of the rock - a black streak is Kuniya, a python woman; a crack is a gaping wound in Liru's head.
We complete 10km before 8am. Left leg and foot are sore as a consequence of a cut in the sole of my foot, received in the pool on Christmas Day from a piece of broken glass. We visit the info centre, which is excellent. It's home to the 'Sorry Book', containing letters of apology from people who climbed Uluru in the past, or brought home souvenir rocks. Many blame streaks of bad luck on their actions, and request absolution from the Aborigines.
Long drive after lunch to King's Canyon. Stop at a lookout for table mountain Mount Conner, and salt lake Lake Amadeus. Watch the sunset from a bluff, and sleep under the stars again.
Up at 4am again on the 29th, short bus ride to the site of the canyon. Short, steep climb up Heart Attack Hill. Try to race Ritchie, but he's in excellent shape, and I am definitely the worse for wear after four months of little dedicated exercise and too much beer. The sky at sunrise is breath-taking, the colours painting the clouds pink and yellow. A few hours wandering around a 'lost city' of rocky domes, more craggy than the Olgas. They are almost the beehive cells of Skellig Michael.
I take the opportunity to swim in a waterhole in the 'Garden of Eden', a lush valley among the dry rocks. Lisa, Marco and Erica join me. Water is perfect temperature. Bump into S&N on way out of valley, and we admire the cliff faces from the top - sheer where the rocks have collapsed - and then descent to the bus. A lot of driving back to AS.
That evening I share some beers with Dan, and everyone comes to Annie's for dinner, including some of the Asians. The two Koreans who called me their 'chief' don't put in an appearance though. Dinner, drinks, some dancing. Then Lucas shaves my head. Night eventually fizzles out, and I wind up playing cards and smoking with Jonnie and a Kiwi called Dave, before bed at 1am.
On the way to Sydney now. Saw Rebecca on the bus, and Seb and Nicci at the airport - for the last time? Also Lisa and Marco, who will also be in Sydney for NYE. Looking forward to seeing how much the lads have changed, if at all.
***
When I left Broome, my sandals literally fell apart, and so were binned after 4 months of heavy usage. Got a bus to the Dingo Moon Lodge, and to Coles to get pasta and sauce. Chatted to an Offaly couple while cooking. Discovered Seb and Nicci are in town, called to their hotel and we went for a couple of drinks. Got back to the hostel late, to find that I had received tax back, and that Aoife had her baby! Little Donagh, healthy and happy! Got chatting to a Nordie and an English guy before retiring.
***
(23rd) Next morning I had the excellent free breakfast at the hostel - croissants and cereal! Met S&N for a wander down to the marina. Nearly everything in Darwin is closed - for the wet season, or far Christmas. There's also a potential cyclone. Spend all morning and afternoon at a café, just chatting and playing cards. Seb & Nicci are like old friends at this point, we've spent so much time together, really great just to hang out with them.
 |
| Doing nothing in Darwin |
Chatted with my German roommate a bit, auf Deutsch. She mistakes me for Swiss, which I take as a great compliment. Bed around 4.30am - the airport bus is coming at 5.45. Yay.
***
(24th) Flight is uneventful, AS is hot! Have to wait a while at the airport for pick-up. Sit and people-watch after I finish Terry Pratchett. Lots of fathers reuniting with their wife and kids, and grown children coming home for Christmas.
There's a lovely warm buzz about the place, and I chat to another couple of backpackers. Arrive at Annie's Place to find three Christmas cards - Mammy, Granny & Margaret, and Nora, who's also included tea bags. Get supplies for dinner in town, keep to myself for dinner, and head to the cinema to see Mission Impossible 4. Just don't want to spend C. Eve getting drunk. Head to midnight mass afterwards. Get to the church around 11.15, listen to the choir.
***
Next morning started just killing time, but a Dutch guy called Laurens invites us to share dinner with him, Aussie Jonnie, and Finnish Maria. We get to work chopping veg and buttering bread, and soon a feast is ready. Jonnie is irrepressibly happy. We spend the day drinking beer, playing in the pool, and smoking joints. The staff are having a party, so the bar is open. The day is far more enjoyable than it was first looking. French David actually went to McDonalds where he struggled to be served at the drive-through. He tried asking two women in a car to help him, but they flicked a cigarette at him instead!
***
The 26th was an extremely lazy day, spent by the pool, writing postcards in the 40°C heat. Did nought. Headed to ANZAC hill to watch the sunset, stopping in Woolworths to get some water. There I bumped into S&N again! Sunset was beautiful, a small crowd was gathered to watch it. Picked up S&N at their hostel (a quiet place), and back to Annie's for beer and cards. Gave them their presents of Aussie card decks, and they gave me a cool NT stubby holder. Huzzah for Christmas!
***
Picked up from Annie's on the 27th, me and a Kiwi Dan. Heavy rain and grey skies made for a dull drive, but time we got to our first stop - a camel farm - it had cleared up. The group was half Asian, half whiteys. An English couple, two Germans, a Swiss, an Aussie, the Kiwi and an English girl who lives in Bangkok working for the UN. Two Koreans and five Japanese completed our number.
Lots of driving until we reached our campsite for lunch. After that we did a short (7.4km) hike at Kata Tjuta - the Olgas. These are a collection of massive hulks of smooth rock, orange in the desert sun, giant domes conspicuous in the flatness of the red centre.
 |
| First view of Uluru |
One closely resembled a jelly on a plate. The heat was uncomfortable, but would've been worse without the clouds. Reg, our guide, wouldn't let one girl do the full hike because she didn't have sufficient water. Real danger of dehydration out here.
While dinner was cooking at the campsite, we went up to a nearby lookout point to watch the sun set over Uluru. It was funny to think that Claire had stood in this same spot, watching the same spectacle a few years before. The sunset itself was more impressive than Uluru, which didn't glow red as expected, but the odd grey shade was bizarre, and cool to look at.
Broke out our swags then - essentially bed-sized tents. A canvas construction with an inbuilt mattress. Comfortable, but no insulation. Amazing to literally sleep under the stars. Orion, the Pleiades, the Milky Way. Not as clear as Mongolia, but still beautiful.
***
Up at 3.56am on the 28th, breakfast and bus to Uluru, where we walked around the base of the rock as the sun rose. I'm not sure of the root of the wonder, but it was easy to see why the Aborigines treated it as a sacred place. A gigantic monolith, pockmarked and scarred in places, black stains of waterfalls running down the sides. Surrounded by surprisingly lush greenery. The redness slowly becoming visible in the dawn glow, and finally direct sunlight setting it afire.
The legends of the Aboriginal people are explained in various info panels, showing where the stories are visible in the face of the rock - a black streak is Kuniya, a python woman; a crack is a gaping wound in Liru's head.
We complete 10km before 8am. Left leg and foot are sore as a consequence of a cut in the sole of my foot, received in the pool on Christmas Day from a piece of broken glass. We visit the info centre, which is excellent. It's home to the 'Sorry Book', containing letters of apology from people who climbed Uluru in the past, or brought home souvenir rocks. Many blame streaks of bad luck on their actions, and request absolution from the Aborigines.
Long drive after lunch to King's Canyon. Stop at a lookout for table mountain Mount Conner, and salt lake Lake Amadeus. Watch the sunset from a bluff, and sleep under the stars again.
***
Up at 4am again on the 29th, short bus ride to the site of the canyon. Short, steep climb up Heart Attack Hill. Try to race Ritchie, but he's in excellent shape, and I am definitely the worse for wear after four months of little dedicated exercise and too much beer. The sky at sunrise is breath-taking, the colours painting the clouds pink and yellow. A few hours wandering around a 'lost city' of rocky domes, more craggy than the Olgas. They are almost the beehive cells of Skellig Michael.
I take the opportunity to swim in a waterhole in the 'Garden of Eden', a lush valley among the dry rocks. Lisa, Marco and Erica join me. Water is perfect temperature. Bump into S&N on way out of valley, and we admire the cliff faces from the top - sheer where the rocks have collapsed - and then descent to the bus. A lot of driving back to AS.
That evening I share some beers with Dan, and everyone comes to Annie's for dinner, including some of the Asians. The two Koreans who called me their 'chief' don't put in an appearance though. Dinner, drinks, some dancing. Then Lucas shaves my head. Night eventually fizzles out, and I wind up playing cards and smoking with Jonnie and a Kiwi called Dave, before bed at 1am.
***
On the way to Sydney now. Saw Rebecca on the bus, and Seb and Nicci at the airport - for the last time? Also Lisa and Marco, who will also be in Sydney for NYE. Looking forward to seeing how much the lads have changed, if at all.
