Wednesday 1 February 2012

Day 154 - Lake Tekapo

I'm sitting in the YHA hostel, looking out at the most brilliantly coloured lake I've ever seen. Truly aquamarine. It could well be the world's most gigantic swimming pool. A stiff breeze is coming through the window, cooling me. The bus dropped me here at 10am, by 11am I was out walking with my camera in my day bag. First stop, the cosy Church of the Good Shepherd. A window behind the altar gives much the same view as the one I'm looking at now. The clouds are banking up behind the Alps to the east, spilling over into the gaps, but not pushing any further. One pass in particular looks like a wall of white, a fluffy dam.

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Walked around Mt John, alongside the lake shore, exposed to the hot afternoon sun. Then, at a shoulder, the path curves around and up, leading directly to the observatory atop the summit. Tired and sweaty, I reward myself with a smoothie and a delicious white chocolate apricot delicacy. The descent is more pleasant, winding steeply down through pine forest, emerging by an ice rink. Cheeky nap then, because I'll be up late tonight star-gazing.

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I've been rather contemplative of late, probably due to my few consecutive 'nights off', as well as the emotional response to leaving R. Not going to see her again in NZ, but maybe in Canada sometime.

My mind's been drifting back over the people I've met on this odyssey. Adrian, taciturn but warm, willing to take what life and travel threw at him. Andy and Laura, now engaged. Jenia, who taught us some Russian, and called Adrian her "hamster". Oksana, Irina and Roman, who made the Apple hostel feel like staying with friends. The Adventure Taxi crew, who inspired so much generosity and love on their route, driving across the continent, and into the homes and hearts of so many.

The VT posse. Lukas and Regine, Team Swiss. So independent, but completely willing to commit to the group. Regine, starting out at the passing scenery or pulling ridiculous faces. Lukas, my drunken buddy, like an older brother. Commanding respect through his thoughtfulness. Jake, the tall Australian, attracting unwanted attentions everywhere. The party starter, heading home to settle down. Like a salmon, swimming upstream to Europe to find a mate, and returning home. ...that's not quite a biologically correct metaphor, but oh well. Never really a strong bond between us, but a mutual understanding of each other. Andy, who took a chance with me on the half-cabin, only to share with Alex and Hannah. A proud and strong Kiwi, but soft at heart.

Scott and Ali, the married couple whom I didn't even realise were married until the story of Scott's proposal. Such fun drunks, but great and chatty when sober too. The Motley sisters: well-spoken, Cambridge-bred, but so different. H for their father, K for their mother. The latter sporty and quiet, the former very intelligent and ambitious. Cute too. I have an image of her dancing with Dom in the Beijing reggae bar, hair down, face lit up with joy.

Brigitte, the baby of the group, 21 in Siberia, but the one on the longest trip. Met again in Mui Ne and Singapore. It was she who forced me to confront my lack of love for J. I couldn't tolerate losing her respect, though I'm not sure why it was so important to me. Still not sure if she thinks of me as a creepy old man. "You're looking well this morning", a greeting, a refrain, a mantra. The female Aussie, Kelly. We were never really very close, but she brightened up China, and was a very friendly guide in Sydney.

Dom. Wonderful, laughing Dom. I find it nearly impossible to picture him without his wide grin. I feel like I'm still travelling with him while reading his blog, and part of me wishes I still was. His courage and determination in heading out into the world. The sorrow he must harbour, knowing he might not return. But I know he'll succeed, and I'm already looking forward to meeting him again.

Finally, completing "Team S'vhampton", Seb and Nicci, my most constant travel buddies. SPB-BJ, BK-Hoi An (Hué), Hanoi, Darwin, AS, Melbourne, and soon Auckland too. Him, sport-loving, laddish, Croatian. Her a teacher, kind, gentle and thoughtful, prone to timidness. They compliment each other nicely, this trip will be the solidifying of their relationship. If anyone survives ten months of 24hr company, they must be well able. Though B and C did the same. Hopefully S&N will do much better.

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Each of the VT crew was a gem. Down-to-earth,  friendly, interesting. Nazeem, Maria, Sergei, Dawa, Lily. Our wonderful variety of guides. Nazeem: laid back, self-assured, showing off SPB's beauty. Maria: slightly flustered, but protective. Sergei: über-protective, and doting. Dawa: almost invisible, but capable. Lily... I don't remember Lily doing anything but organising the bus to the Great Wall.

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Travelling with Kelly & Dom. The standing tickets for the train. Emerald, the intensely friendly Chinese girl. The three Germans, Jens, Nick and Frank. Kunming's big hills. Leaving China.

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