Day 55 - Mui Ne

Still here, for one more day at least. Was supposed to leave yesterday, but between Seb's ilness, and the chilled out pace of life here, we haven't budged. Jeany left this afternoon, so back into the dorm with the others again, though Brigitte has been spending a lot of time with some other Dutchies. She's abandoning her plans in order to fly to Bali, sacrificing her time in Australia - freedom!

Did nought today. Breakfast next door in Joe's with Jeany. Joined by Stefan, and his friend Lee. Then saw Jeany to the bus, and decamped to the beach. Reading Gulliver's Travels - one chapter, then swim. Repeat. Got a bit of burn on my back yesterday, so slightly pink today.

The weather today is overcast - it's the first time there hasn't been a blue sky since we arrived. It's far more pleasant, especially with a breeze. I have to live beside the sea. The sound of the breakers, battling playfully with the waves while swimming. Fiona would love it here.

It must be a holiday destination for Russians - plenty of the local restaurants and tour agents have signs in Russian, and a couple in German. I suppose one can get the train all the way from Russia. Or perhaps there's cheap flights. Can't blame them for making the giant journey here - so beautiful, relaxed and peaceful.

***

RWC final - Weepu (NZ) missing two penalties and a conversion, and gifting France the ball for that try. Donald (NZ) coming on to groans from his own supporters, only to score a penalty. A NZ player running into touch with the ball. France's inspiring moves in the second half, and their defence in the first. NZ constantly attacking.

The NZ supporters - vocal, but friendly with the table of French beside me. Celebratory in black. Seeing both parties around town later, on the dunes the next day. Smiles and nods of recognition. Kiwis deserved to win, and probably by a greater margin.

Also, I had a swim at half-time!

***

A note on the Golden Lingua - worshipped by the Khmer of Ankgor Thom, it was looted by Thailand during a war. They have it still, as part of the crown jewels. I asked Paean about it - if Cambodia wanted it back, but he just said that they would take t back if they could, and right now they couldn't, so they didn't want it. I wonder if it's like the Elgin Marbles. Must look it up.

The Hills

Out for a bit of a hike with some American students, showing them a bit of the other side of Dublin.

 

Odd watercourse, beside the Chemserve building on Edmondstown Road - slows the water down. Just before it is what appears to be a mill race, but modern. No idea what the overall purpose is though.

 

Archway in the old Kilakee gardens in Lord Massey's.

 

Hellfire Club overlooking the city.

 

Pink ribbon fluttering in the woods of Tibradden. There was a second one nearer the summit, out among the heather on the bog.

Dollymount House

 

"A building popularly known as "The Long House," originally called "Dollymount," and at a subsequent period "Mount Pelier House" - a name which has caused it to be confounded wit the ruin on top of the hill. The original heavy gate pillars and stone walls along the avenue still remain, as also a couple of stiles constructed for the use of foot passengers when the approach was closed during the absence of the proprietors. The house is two storeys high in front, with six windows on each side, and over the hall-door are the arms of the Ely family, surmounted by a coronet. The rooms had marble chimney-pieces and stuccoed ceilings, some portions of which yet remain; and the windows commanded a beautiful view of the County Dublin, the city and bay, with Howth, Ireland's Eye and Lambay. On each side of the house was a large arched gateway, from which extended a long wing of out-offices, servants' apartments, stables, &c., terminating at each end in a square three-storied tower with embattled top and pointed windows. Over the door of the left hand tower was, formerly, the date 1763, inscribed on the keystone of the arch - probably the date of erection or commencement.

This establishment was built as a hunting residence by Henry Loftus, Earl of Ely, the Count Loftonzo figuring so Prominently in Baratariana, whose wife, Frances Munroe, was aunt of the celebrated beauty, Dolly Monroe, after whom the Place was called "Dollymount." It was originally surrounded and sheltered by a fine plantation of trees, some of which, mostly chestnuts, may still be seen to the left on approaching the building, and on the slope of the hill above it was a splendid wood of firs and larches, as dense as a tropical forest, not a trace of which now remains, the trees having been cut down and sold by a tenant who occupied the place after it had been abandoned as a residence by the owners."

From "The Neighbourhood of Dublin" by Weston St John Joyce, 1939.

Arbour Hill

As part of Heritage Week, I wandered down to Arbour Hill cemetery for a small tour.

 

The site was historically a military prison, located just next to Collins Barracks.

 

And naturally the graveyard is the final resting place of many soldiers. Many didn't die in active service - one Lancer fell off his horse in the Phoenix Park; several drowned on a recreational cruise in Dublin Bay. This particular detail belonged to the stone of an Artillery soldier. The engraving around the icon reads "Anchored in the hope of Jesus".

 

The old schoolmaster's house is now home to the IUNVA - the Irish United Nations Veterans Association. A small but pretty garden contains a memorial to all those who were killed on service, in the Congo, the Lebanon, East Timor, among others. The house is a meeting place for old soldiers, and also contains a museum.

 

The real draw of Arbour Hill though, that which it is most famous for, is the 1916 memorial. It was here that fourteen participants of the Easter Rising were buried after being executed in the Stonebreakers' Yard in Kilmainham Gaol. Along with the seven signatories, seven other volunteers were executed, including Pádraig Mac Piarais' younger brother William. They were covered in quicklime, and interred in the corner of the prison's exercise yard. A British army officer kept a rough note of their position, and in 1956 a memorial was erected. It's a nice spot, despite the prison walls - it's still in use today, in a civil capacity. There is no military prison in Ireland.

There's another tour Tuesday 26th at 7.30pm, and on Sunday 31st from 11am-3pm, on the hour.