Sunday 15 January 2012

Day 137 - Melbourne

Thursday 12th, not enough sleep, but Andy picks me up again from the hostel. Grab the same seat, like old buddies. Pick up a Brazilian couple, some middle-aged Swedes, a Scottish couple - Stuart and Emma, a couple of Austrians, and a Danish girl amongst others.

First stop is the Moonlit animal sanctuary. A few snakes in cases in the reception, then out to see the koalas, the dingoes (one is missing his left eye) and to feed the emu. Food in flat palm, and his massive beak pecks violently. We wander around the park, and there are wallabies everywhere! Extremely cute critters, who eat from the palm of my hand. Some tentatively hold my hand for balance, gently leaning on it. A couple of shy roos, before it's time to leave.

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Churchill Island is our next stop, a show farm. Sheepdog display, including mustering turkeys. Don't bother watching the shearing, explore the form instead. The island has been home to some true characters - one who died on his horse when he "knocked the ribs off his spinal column". The island is slowly being returned to bushland from agricultural.

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The bottle dump

Quick pitstop at a chocolate factory/café. A tour is fun, containing a tonne of games, though I don't manage to win any. Tea at Cape Woolamai surf beach, windy again.

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Koala conservation centre next - not as impressive as yesterday's abundance, but here we spot a baby koala on its mother's back. Tourist brochure image. Share the moment with the Scottish couple and the Brazilians.

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Back on the bus to head to the tip of Phillip Island, the Nobbies and Seal Rocks. Dinner - sit with the Austrians, only realising too late that the pretty Dane is sitting by herself. Cameras zoom in on the seals, the Rocks are too far away for anyone to actually make out the seals. Andy also finds us some Little Penguins, hiding under the boardwalk.

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Then the main spectacle of the day - down to the beach for the Penguin Parade. Pass a few wild wallabies on the way, grazing in the fields. Big information centre, have a look around, then get a hot cup of tea and get a dry seat up in the stands. Kids and an English couple in the row behind me start getting on my nerves while we wait, so I stick some music in my ears. Gradually it gets darker, and eventually some small black features start to appear out of the surf... and then disappear back into it. This continues for about 15 minutes until a big enough raft gains enough confidence to cross the open beach to reach their burrows in the bushland. They huddle together, scattering seagulls as they waddle home. I manage to move closer as people quickly get their fill. They are quite tiny, with white bellies and dark blue coats.

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On the way back to the bus, there are penguins on both sides fo the boardwalk, calling out to each other, or still on their way home. They are in the carpark, and out on the road. After dark the island is closed to public access to protect the penguins. Can't take any photos, but it's a wonderful thing to see and experience. Straight back to Melbourne, again chatting with Andy all the while.

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Check out of the hostel morning of the 13th. Chatting with Lyndsey at breakfast, and bid farewell to Italian Elena. Head into town and take an 11am tour of the Town Hall with Ken. Very fine building, especially the council chamber. Lots of dark wood, all sculpted with tremendous detail, and a Renaissance style ceiling. Out on the balcony where the Beatles once stood.


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After that I wandered around the city on a self-guided tour. Went up to the 35th floor toilet of the Sofitel building - one wall is entirely glass. Really odd to take a leak while gazing out across the city. Then I failed to enter the State Library due to my bag being too big.


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Grabbed my bag from the hostel then, made my out by tram to van's place in Carlton. He'd very kindly offered to put me up for two nights. Seems like a larger than life character, meeting him in the flesh. He's instantly likeable, and very passionate about his interests. We head to the Great Northern for a drink and dinner, and are joined by Kev. Spend a while discussing motorbikes. Kev wants to buy an Enfield, a Royal Enigma... I think . Then we grab some large bottles of ale and head back to van's. Later I meet Friedel, his girlfriend, and Tim his housemate.

Our drunken conversation covers many topics. Find out Kev will be in Belfast for St Patrick's Day. Explain to them about Ireland becoming independent, amongst other things.

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Van and Frieda rise early the next morning (14th), so I do likewise. She's off to work, he's chilling for the day, I get the tram (where a lovely woman gives me a dollar so I can buy a ticket) and go to the gaol. It's a bit expensive, but has won a stack of awards. It's a Victorian model, similar to Kilmainham in the main cell block. A lot of the cells contain death masks and stories of notorious criminals who have been hanged at the prison, including Ned Kelly.

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Next door in the courthouse, there is a re-enactment of the trial involving audience members. Apparent Kelly's lawyer was inexperienced and bungled some of the case. The judge wanted Kelly hanged from the off, so the trial was a formality. Also learned that Kelly wanted to start his own Republic, and had a few grand schemes that didn't work out. At Glenrowan, he tried to detail an entire train full of police, but failed and was instead captured.

Also took part in an 'arrest'. A frankly terrifying female sergeant processed us entirely in character. So much so that one child started crying. The watch house itself isn't that interesting, so the arresting experience really made it worthwhile.

Had a brief look around the Queen Victoria market, not sure why people find them interesting as tourist attractions. Entertaining to watch the sellers at work. Got a nice pie for lunch, then entered the State Library. Huge dome over a reading room. Ned Kelly's armour on display. Only spent about half an hour there, then went to the Hellenic Museum, but it was closed.

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Stopped by Brunswick Street on the way back, to sample it. Lots of shops and cafés with very individual character and spirit. Actually was where I spent most of the night in the end. Quirky bars abounded.

Dinner at Little Creatures. Van, Miles, Craig, Chest and Kev. Nomis, Adam and Karsten couldn't attend. Contrary to expectations, it was all very natural and relaxed. Bit of a pub crawl after eating. Memorable joints were the Attic (upstairs, with doorbell. Very delicious 'Smokeback Mountain' cocktail, came with marshmallows), and Mena Bar, which had loads of consoles. Kev treated us to absinthe in some place next door to another place (huzzah for vagueness!). Liam was sound. Lots of photos on Ches' really nice compact, with Pentax lens. Last place had pool tables, 3 on 3 game. Then home to bed.

Learned that there's an 'Irish Exit', which is when somebody leaves a party without saying goodbye. Have to look that up.

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Tram and bus to airport this morning. Queue for check-in. Queue for security. Queue for passport control. Queue to board the aeroplane. Airports are great.

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