Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts

Thursday 1 December 2011

Day 92 - Bangkok (airport)

Interesting couple of days. Met Niall night of the 29th in the Irish pub. He wandered in wearing a baseball cap backwards and displaying his sleeve tattoos, decorating the full length of both arms. His wife had the latest baby okay - Rhea. We chatted about Ireland, Thailand, the king and his disowned playboy son, travelling, pubs... Then he got a text from a friend of his - Tony. Went elsewhere to meet him - a collection of crappy little bars, populated by attractive, welcoming girls. Find Tony with one, and himself and Niall have a catch-up, comparing pubs. Didn't realise Niall was part-owner of O'Donoghue's. They explain some of the dynamics of pubs to me - how people attract people, how the staff affect footfall.

We are joined by an Irishman, Brian from Ballybough, who knows Des! Small world. We adjourn to a different pub for some pool, and then darts, which Niall wins. I'm clearly inferior to the lads in both games - I  suppose bar managers play a lot of pool. Get back to the hostel about 4.30am, sleep.

Hangover-curing shower the next morn, and once that passes, I'm happy to discover that the antibiotics have already taken effect. Make my way over to Khao San road via rail and tuk-tuk, meet Tori and Diana for breakfast. We wander around the stalls, laughing at the funny tshirts, and I pick up two baby tshirts for Anna-to-be and Donagh-to-be, and the 'Communist Party' for myself. Trying to figure out how we spent six hours doing nought... left them chilling in their hostel, went to meet Debbie in Silom.

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She comes down the stairs, looking smashing in a black dress and heels, with a large heart pedant. Suddenly I'm self-conscious of my flimsy white linen top, shorts and sandals. Dinner in a Lebanese restaurant, conversation is great. Post-prandial drinks in the Irish pub, and she orders a half-pint of Guinness. Pub calls last orders, and we are left looking for another venue.

A man asks us if we want to see one of the Ping Pong shows. It's part of the Bangkok experience, so we agree. Everything seems a little dodgy, and when we arrive at a seedy strip joint, we are ready to turn and walk. He assures us there will be a show, and my eyes will never unsee that show. Blowing out candles, draining bottles with different liquids and then refilling them with the separate liquids, smoking cigarettes... astounding really. Finale of ping pong balls being fired into the audience. I am handed a table tennis paddle to try knock them back on stage and into a bucket.

Once the show finishes, we drink up quickly and find a street-side bar that is closing, but provides us with a table and two chairs. When that bar closes, we clamber on top of two stacks of chairs outside Starbucks, sitting atop them as if they were thrones.

The night must end though - I have a flight, and Debbie has work.

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Reckon Singapore's going to be similar to Bangkok, a city which is constantly busy, bustling and buzzing, booming. The skyline is awash with skyscrapers, and the sprawl of a city of 12m is immense from the air. It's a stark contrast to Luang Prabang with its charming temples and cafés. The only downside was the open sewers lining the streets. Ventiane, the European-influenced capital with its wide boulevards, is a world away from dusty Phonsavanh, with its single traffic light.

Trying to compare them it Irsh cities - I guess Bangkok is Dublin, LP is Killarney maybe. Vientiane is Adare perhaps - pretty, but not much going on. VV is definitely Galway. Not sure if anywhere is awful enough to be Phonsavanh... maybe Sligo? :P

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Been meaning to jot down my thoughts on language for a while. In Russia I made a huge effort to learn some useful or fun phrases. Came in handy a couple of times, and amusing some other times. But when we crossed into Mongolia, it was all rendered useless. I think I barely learned 'thank you' in Mongolian. In China the Germans taught me more Chinese in one day than I learned in a week by myself. Likewise in Cambodia, all I managed was 'cam om' for thank you.

Five weeks in Vietnam left me with still only the basics, and several terms for food - pho, ba, ga, muc, etc. It shames me that I didn't make more of an effort. Not even 'how are you?'. In Laos, I struggled to replace 'aw con' with 'kop chai'. ONly in my last couple of days did I success. And back to Bangkok - listening to Niall and Debbie speak even their basic Thai makes me envious. I must keep up my German, and take up a new language... Serbian? Russian? Vietnamese? Thai?

Tuesday 29 November 2011

Day 90 - Bangkok

Wonder how loudly I was snoring last night. Get up and shower, go downstairs for breakfast. Ask at reception to stay two more nights, but they're full. Book a new place online. Ask about a doctor, and she recommends BNH - originally Bangkok Nursing Home, now a private hospital which operates with such clean efficiency that I am €110 poorer before an hour is up. Very swish place, even have valet parking. I am issued an ID card, and a nurse does a swift BP/weight/height. The doctor agrees with my sinusitis diagnosis, and prescribes me my desired antibiotics, as well as decongestants in both spray and tablet form. These are presented to me in a boutique bag, undoubtedly made of recycled paper. All super-modern.



I go for a wander in the warmth, and take some internet time, then get a head and neck massage. Not entirely sure it relaxed me at all, but it was nice.

Splurged on a burger in the Irish pub, back in the hostel chilling now. Taking advantage of the common room.

Monday 28 November 2011

Day 89 - Bangkok

Got up relatively early yesterday, booked a flight to Bangkok for €140, was on my way to get a nice head massage when I run into Team Scotland, who are their way to ride some elephants. They invite me along, and I go. Tuk-tuk out to the site of the Tad Sae waterfall - they look so beautiful, almost appearing artificial. They line up three elephants. Kirsty, who has been asking to sit on the neck, is directed into the seat of the first. I'm next, and am placed on the neck of the second, with Linda behind me in the seat. Laurie and Karen share the seat of the third.

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Team Scotland

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It's unnerving rider Samtuk - I feel as though my hands are pushing down into her brain through her bristly skin, and with every step, I lurch from side to side, an inch away from falling off. Which I don't do, happily, even when going downhill. We amble through the jungle, just enjoying the sensation of being atop an elephant. The mahouts grab the compact cameras, and are soon snapping away like paparazzi on the ground.

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I swap places with Linda, and we enter a shallow pool by the waterfalls. Kirsty's elephant splashes us with her trunk, before we are out and off. We feed them afterwards, their trunks seeking out the food before we can hand it to them. We have to keep it out of reach.

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We relax by the waterfalls for a while, and myself and Kirsty take a short hike along the river - there's not much to see though. All the girls except Laurie take a dip, and I have no togs, and am wearing jeans. Darn. Return across the river and back to town, grabbing dinner by the Mekong (Namkhong in Lao). The sun is setting behind the town, but we don't have a view of it at all.

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I pack my bags ready for the morning, and go online to sort out a hostel for Bangkok, and my Aussie visa (which is granted instantly). Skyped Nora and Katie yesterday. Meet the Scottish girls for a drink, and they are eating again. I must not have my normal appetite. Face still hurts, but I grab a beer anyway. Sit by the bonfire for a bit, chat to an English/RSA couple. Then we return to Utopia. I teach the girls how to play Arsehole, before time is called for curfew. Have a brief chat with the owner, who explains how he had to get the place shipshape when he took it over. It's down a series of back alleys, and so relies heavily on word of mouth to get clientèle in. Say goodbye to Team Scotland, asleep by midnight.

Up at 5.30 for tuk-tuk to airport. Share with two silent girls. Nowhere to buy water at terminal. Board plane and doze intermittently, iPod in. Land and get the train to the hostel. Climb into bed after a quick breakfast. Nap on and off from about midday 'til six. Wake myself up with my own snoring more than once, which is a first [and a second!]. Dinner in the hostel, then relaxing time.

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Going to see a doctor in the morning if I'm not better, get some anti-biotics. Also meeting Niall tomorrow at some point, and Di and Tori are in town. And Debbie on Thursday. Just need lots of energy!

Sunday 16 October 2011

More places I've stayed

Asia hotel, Battambang (http://www.asiahotelbattambang.com/)
Heartwood guesthouse, Phnom Penh
Saigon Backpackers, HCMC (http://saigonbackpackershostel.com/)
Austria House, Mui Ne (http://www.muinebackpackers.com/)
Xua Dalat, Dalat
Ai Nghia, Dalat
Long house (homestay), Lak
Eden Hotel, Buôn Ma Thuột
Hoang Thinh, Kon Tum
Nhà Khách, Kham Duc
Hoa Binh, Hoi An
Hué Backpackers, Hué (http://www.vietnambackpackerhostels.com/the-hostels/the-imperial-hue/)
Queen Mini, Ninh Binh
Hanoi Backpackers, Hanoi (http://www.vietnambackpackerhostels.com/the-hostels/downtown-hanoi/)
Castaway Island, Halong Bay
Intercontinental Westlake, Hanoi
Orchid Guesthouse, Ventiane
Chalenn Garden Guesthouse, Vang Vieng
Jar Café, Phonsavanh
?, Phonsavanh
Souk Lan Xang, Luang Prabang (http://souklanxang.weebly.com/)
@Hualampong, Bangkok (http://www.athualamphong.hostel.com/)
Saphai Pae, Bangkok (http://www.saphaipae.com/)
Inn Crowd, Singapore (http://www.the-inncrowd.com/)
Fernloft, Singapore (http://www.fernloft.com/index.php/fernloft-singapore-east-coast)

Saturday 15 October 2011

Places I've stayed

Apple Hostel, St Petersburg (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/45374)
Godzilla hostel, Moscow
Briz chalet, Listvyanka
Sant Asar hotel, Ulaanbaatar
Guru Travel ger camp
Xihua Jade Hotel, Beijing
365 Inn, Beijing (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/16667)
Shua Yaun hostel, Xi'an (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/5599)
Fenghe Xi'an IYH, Xi'an
Jinjiang Inn, Chengdu
Cloudland, Kunming (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/12661)
Urban Age, Bangkok
@Hualomphong, Bangkok (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/40577)
Rosy Guesthouse, Siem Reap (http://rosyguesthouse.com/)

[those with links are ones I'd definitely recommend]

Tuesday 11 October 2011

Day 41 - Bangkok (bus)

Leaving for Cambodia on the 4.30am public bus.

***

Yesterday's wander around the city was rather rewarding overall. Saw most of the main tourist sites, as well as a couple of glimpses into Thai life. Temples at 50THB [Baht, about €1.25] are great value. The Grand Palace at 400THB is not.

Monks cannot sit next to women it seems. There were three on the back of the ferry, and one gestured to me to sit beside him as a buffer. Made me feel a little holy. Hopefully it made up for being reprimanded in the temple earlier. A monk told me to sit down. Not sure of the etiquette, but think one shouldn't stand before Buddha. Or point your feet at him. Take your shoes off in temples is also standard, and there is a simple spiritual effect when pattering around in one's bare feet.

Thai people are either very helpful, or out to make a quick buck. I can't tell one from the other. At least the tuk-tuk drivers offering 'happy hour' prices are quite obvious. The ones who approach you on the street to draw new temples on your map, temples that are free because of the 'special holiday'. Thos I do not trust. Which means if anyone starts talking to, I dismiss them immediately. "Where are you going?" "This way."

***

A reminder: driving in Beijing traffic is like cycling in the peloton. You have to be aware of every movement around you, always ready to brake.

***

Siem Reap! Home of Angkor Wat! Got through the border crossing fine, Seb leading the way. Avoided the scams, but Cambodian border police demanded 100BHT for 'express' service. Also paid 40BHT for the toilet without thinking. Taxi met us - Paeak drove us into SR along the flattest, straightest road I've encountered in a long time. He said it was only built two years previous. The old road was know as the 'fucking road'. Flat, green, wet countryside. Paddy fields and emaciated cows. Armies of clouds marching across the sky, yet we seemed to have constant sunshine.

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Arrived at the guesthouse, right on the river front - and then some! SR is suffering some flooding - rainwater descending from the typhoon in Thailand. Tuk-tuk to the old town (US$2), a fish massage (very ticklish at first) and a quick market buy. The walk back through the flooded streets.

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Siem Reap
The water in the background is actually the river
Hostel is very laid back - owned by Rachel, Aussie twang. Cheap beer, pool table, good food, DVDs, books... who needs Angkor Wat?

Monday 10 October 2011

Day 40 - Bangkok

Heat and humidity. I'm constantly melting and sweating. A thin film of moisture covers me every waking moment. A/C in the dorm is a godsend. It's the rainy season here too, but the closeness ('tis fierce close!) doesn't break when the clouds burst. Everything just gets saturated and slightly flooded. Bought a small pink umbrella - all I could get. Lots of lightning, only some thunder.

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***

Ate with S&N at a night market place last night, but with normal food - papaya salad, chicken, noodles, etc. You sit at one stand, but order from any. Good food.

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***

Spent today seeing the sights - Wat Arun, Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew (the Grand Palace). Huge reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. Lots of Buddhas elsewhere. Bit Buddha-ed out now.

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***

Really like the Thai script. Very jaunty!

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Sunday 9 October 2011

Day 39 - Kunming (airport)

Slept lightly last night, knowing I'd have to wake early. Meant I woke at every coming and going in the room, which was a lot! At 2.30am, the guy who had previously locked me out of the room got up and /fed/. This was not eating, it was feeding. Nuts or something. Rustle, rustle, crack-ack, munch, munch. Repeat for about 20min. With the light on. Chinese couple having a domestic at 5am outside the hostel. Get up.

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Holy crap! I'm in Thailand! How did that happen?

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A Chinese post-mortem: I liked China, loved the Chinese people, but I'm not sorry to leave. Definitely a country I will return to - even just to Yunnan, to see Lijiang, Dali, Shangri-la... After that there's Hong Kong, the Yangtze, Shanghai, the lesser parts of the Great Wall, the Ming Tombs. I kept missing my step while wandering China because I as so pre-occupied looking at everything around me. Even once on the bike.

Have to be careful on the roads though. To drive, one needs a mixture of confidence, daring and bullying. And it's impossible to bully anyone as a pedestrian, so you need a tonne of confidence!

Don't travel during festivals. Don't store vital info in Google Docs or Dropbox.

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Bird & flower market in Yunnan - also the dogs, chicken, cats, etc. market.

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Chinese hand counting:

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Met a lovely couple while checking in for the Bangkok flight. Paul & Sue, from England. Very pleasant to talk to. Chatted with them while waiting for immigration to open. They've spent a month in Yunnan, coming up to a year away. Both left their jobs under reasonable circumstances (gov't cutbacks) at the same time, so they rented out their house and just took off! So admirable. Both in maybe mid fifties. Met in India, returned there several times. Lovely people.

***

Found hostel easily. No kitchen, no common room. Friendly girl behind the desk called Pla. Get the feeling the other lads in my room are party people. Saga of laundry. Took a wander round a nearby park. Reminds me of Central Park - big pond, pedal boats, skyscrapers all around. I think I'm sick of cities. The cars, the honking, the men shoving photos of girls in my face. Laos is calling to me. Chiang Mai is inaccessible at the moment, though an American (MIchael) at the airport recommended Chiang Rai as less touristy. N&S are heading to Cambodia on Tues, think I'll join them. Meeting them for dinner in a bit.

In an Irish bar at present - Guinness is delicious.

***

Part of me wishes I was in Beijing for the cycling... if I knew everything, I could plan much better!