Saturday 19 November 2011

Day 80 - Vientiane

Really need a detox day or two, and a solid night's sleep. Every morning my stomach's in bits, and I'm not well rested. This morning is very bad - a combo of cheap beer, vodka, and my chilli laced noodles last night. I'll be having some Immodium before the bus to VV later.


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Woke up early yesterday, met Debbie and Adrian downstairs, and we made our way first to the Revolutionary Museum. The history of the founding of the Communist Party, the struggle for freedom - lots of portraits and random objects from people's houses: HCM's desk lamp, Nguyen's ink well, somebody's teacup. Bit odd really, but I suppose I'd be excited to see Michael Collins' favourite pen. Some propagandist art, and lots of references to the 'American Puppets' and the like. Last few rooms feature consumer products, which makes for an amusing contrast.

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On to the history museum then, where they're trying to use up tickets, so everyone buys two tickets to enter. Bizarre. Museum is a little bland - prehistoric tools, lots of pottery, drums. The visit is quick, and rounded off with a cup of coffee before returning to the hostel for lunch. Say goodbye to Adrian, Lee and Debbie, but no Welsh girls. Taxi to the airport, and fly!

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Arrive in Vientiane airport, and realise I've forgotten to pick up dollars for the visa, pay with my emergency kitty of Thai Baht. Must stock up on USD. Recongnise a guy from Hanoi, so we share a taxi. Cyril, French, living in San Fran, has been travelling for three years. Sounds like he's a bit of a dotcom millionaire. Also picked up Shannon, a Melbournian who's in Laos for a week to study forestry. She specialises in fire!

Followed Cyril to the Orchid guesthouse, and get a crap over-priced room with a fan. Met him for dinner, and he spoke about his work on RFIDs with HP, and his future work in enabling household devices to be remotely usable - smoke alarms that email or text on activation, etc. I got a random item from the menu, which turned out to be noodles with many, many chillies  Went for one beer afterwords, where a fight broke out outside.

One very drunk/stoned guy wanting a fight. His mate kept dragging him away, but he kept resisting, as his shirt went from ripped to gone. He disappeared then, but returned with a small knife, once more starting on a guy wearing glasses. Before he could do anything, three guys grabbed his head and arms. Glasses guy went to slam a chair over his head, but thankfully someone stopped him. Policeman appeared, and three soldiers, and one with an AK47. Suddenly he was sitting on the ground, handcuffed. Chances are he'll be deported.

Cyril got talking to two Laotians who were mostly Canadian. Incredible stories - they swam down the Mekong to escape the Communist regime. One aged eight, the other aged four on his parents' back. They invited us to The Future, a club full of Laotians. I brought two girls along too - Claire from Aberdeen, and Rachel from Reading. Left early enough with the girls - they went a little crazy outside around two wee kids - Claire telling the woman she was a mother so she could hold the baby. Made me uncomfortable with the drink on them. They invited me back to theirs for a joint, but I politely declined.

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Woke up early this morning, out to see the sights of the city. It's a very European city - pedestrian crossings with lights and buttons, wide boulevards, and Western prices. Obviously all the government workers are well paid, and cause localised inflation. Visited Wat Si Saket, with its crumbling murals, climbed the Arc de Triomphe of Patuxai, and finished at Pha That Luang, a sacred stupa of national importance. Back for the bus, about four hours along some pretty badly surfaced roads, but saw an awesome sunset.

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Vientiane turned into a non-quiet night, was hoping Vang Vieng could be instead. Off the bus, took a wander to find a hotel. Met an Irish girl called Niamh who recommended one place, but no dorms. First hostel was full. Second hostel charged more for a dorm than for a single, very odd. A French-leaning place caught my fancy - 13,000 kip for a room. Had initially thought that was €13, but realised it's actually €1.30. Has a fan, which is all that's needed really. Got talking to the owner on arrival, a French guy called Jeremy, already half-drunk at 7pm. He recommended Q-Bar and 'shrooms.

Grabbed dinner while watching Friends. It's so surreal - all the restaurants along the main strip show constant episodes of Friends. They resemble giant living rooms, hordes of people, sitting, half distracted, half zombified. Comfort television. Skype Nora, and make appointments with Andrea and Laura, but I am spotted from the street by a rather smashed Diana, who pounces on me. I interrupt the call, knowing that Nora would understand that real life takes precedence over Skype.

Came across Nat then, while on my way to remake my Skype calls. She's hanging with a guy called Willian who can't remember the name of his guesthouse, nor its location. D and Tori come by, and we head to Qbar. I meet Jay, Niamh, and the four Scottish girls from the bus - Kirsty, Karen, Laurie and Linda. Bump into Bobby (from Hué) as well.

Make friends with two Swiss girls - Francie and Tonya. They thought I might be Swiss too, and are from Basil. When the QBar closes, we all head to the Sunset Bar. The Swiss girls are more interested in the locals though, so I get chatting to a York couple - Karl and Amy - who are quite nice, though rather drunk. After a wee singsong around the fire, I decide to leave, coincidentally walking out at the same time as Team Swiss. Francie and I see a shooting star! Night!

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